How good does it get way up the straits, and how often?
Reeeeeaaaalllllllyyyyyyy good. Either not very often or 4 times per day depending on your location. Hint: Paddle out in a bear suit with a salmon in your mouth to fit in with the locals…
If you think you can just drive up and get waves, you’re kidding yourself… ALL of the spots in the Strait require very specific condions, that more often than not, don’t come together… The swell window is VERY narrow, the swell size needs to be BIG, the prevailing winds can turn the surf to sh-t fast… A LOT of the spots require a perilous hike / climb down muddy, near vertical cliffs…That’s IF you can find the trail to the beach…Getting lost in the forest can have serious consequences… Some places you can’t even hike the beach to get to the surf…You’re likely on tribal lands, and if you don’t have an Indian escort, sorry… I’ve been FORCED to paddle a long ways, because the dude on the beach with the shotgun, doesn’t like us walking even near his place… The water is nearly always EXTREMELY cold… But when it all comes together, there is no place I’d rather surf… http://hollowsurfboards.com
Nice shot Paul.Looks like its getting ready to dump. Did you get the tape I sent?Dont leave out mention of Great Whites next time, they too are part of the deal…
damn if I diddn’t hear the melody to “deep in the heart of texas” while reading that last bit…If I only Knew the chords…“STRAIGHTS of Juan DE FUCHA” whadda song…wwhere the smell of Grizzly scat, would like ta knock ya flat, down by the straights of Juan de Fuchaaaaaaaaaa…ambrose…great campfire " legends and myths " are traditonally set to familular melodies
and the great white bites are in clear sight…deep in the straights of Juan de Fucha
Sshhh…Killer the Whale no like songs bout Tex-ass…
No… When did you send it…???.. http://hollowsurfboards.com
Well Paul that was a good shot of the dump. I only surfed it once that good and that was the first time i surfed it. I checked it out alot after that and never got it that good again. Should we tell them about the smell ? The run off that flows into the bay there? It’s better on South Vancouver Island. Later
you’re much better off going to westport. it’s much more consistent. what paul said is true, death defying hikes and uncertainty is what awaits you on the strait. and yes, there is plenty of wildlife in the water, too.
Better on south Vancouver Island?? Blasphemy! It’s obviously much better on the west side of the Island, cause that’s the area Surfer Mag always does their stories about, like in the current issue. From my perspective it’s interesting to see the two or three modern surfers who can make a buck/living?? from surfing nowadays being the focus of stories in mags and featured in videos etc. etc. whereas the original surf explorer in that area, now accessed by modern fast speedboats, explored it in an old sailboat, over 35 years ago. He also built a few cabins neatly tucked away at a couple of those breaks. The thing is that because there were no crowds in those days to speak of, the surfers of the day didn’t have to seek out those hard-to-get-to breaks in order to get uncrowded waves…like they do now. So it’s only now they are becoming known to the masses. We had JR uncrowded, as well as Spot S and PR too. No need to boat out to a reef somewhere, unless you were a true soul surfer and explorer, which Bruce Atkey was and is. He rarely ever gets mentioned or recognized, but, he doesn’t really care. I wonder what he thinks about seeing places he’s known about (and kept quiet about) for so many years now being photographed and video-taped and featured in the mag? Must be weird. I should note that the modern surfers have done a pretty good job about not naming those places so far, but when you take a magazine guy out to them in order to do a story that shows some pretty good quality waves, you are perilously close to crossing the line about keeping your mouth shut about things or being known for exposing them for your own gain, although in the end it’s still hard to imagine a big influx of foreign surfers all heading this way. Lots of nicer and warmer places to go to still out there. Take care.
I got it yesterday…Thanks… Where’s the still…???.. Paul http://www.hollowsurfboards.com
everyone to south vancouver island, stat. Why, why, why, tell the masses? I was there / ego boost. Pictures/ photos, it’s the age of Sam George’s. yous guys are the one’s that complain about the mags / hype. bite your toung babe.
Reality check… I’ve moved beyond the “pretend it doesn’t exist” mentality… What “Identifiers” were on that picture…???..A couple of rocks…???.. What are the chances of someone just stumbling onto these spots…???.. Do you think most surfers would CHOOSE to endure our conditions…???.. How often does it really get good…???.. I choose to not read the magazines (er…ing), because they don’t reflect reality… Learn to spell… http://www.hollowsurfboards.com
Right you are, Paul! For those with knowledge and patience, the smaller the target, the sweeter the hit.
The reality check / spelling check bla bla. It’s one thing to talk to your friends, it’s another to put it out on the internet and have it snowball into someone bringing up S. Vancouver Island. Now you’ve got those guys going nuts thinking that – This is fucked-. I just think it’s better in the long run to keep it quiet
… is two fully loaded logging trucks going head-on, on the Straits. In what can aptly be considered a surf trip from hell anywhere else in the world,a routine day out here may include washouts, mudslides, downed trees across the road, and hell bent bumper riding logging trucks, as you snake your way through switchback after switchback. All the while placing your bets on an iffy understanding, at best, of what awaits you!It became evident the backwoods meth labs had cranked it up a notch the other day,as I pulled off several times to avoid confrontations with death tripping loggers.Talk about your aggro locs!With near forty years surfing these waters, I dont pull off often. Finally settled for a small break in a protected cove, at a creekmouth, which I shared with four surf kayakers. Everyone was glad to just be in the water, at a clean break, with no logs and other woodsy debris floating in the line-up.Back home, after six hours of driving, I poured a stiff one and tossed a Duraflame into the fireplace, thankfull that what plays in the Straits, stays in the Straits.
Wheres the still? Over by the stump, unless Jethro moved it.
You neglected to mention the often iced over roads…When it snows, it goes… http://www.hollowsurfboards.com
Yeah,seen my share of rollovers,Paul.My rig has a rollbar.But that does liitle in the path of a crossed up logging truck…Its all about getting in,getting it, and getting out.“The bigger the hype, the smaller the pipe”…Let it snow, it thins the herd!