Interesting that Maurice Cole is moving away from airbrushed boards to tinted boards at all lengths, custom or shop. In an exchange with a glasser they discussed how airbrushing a board seals the pores which prevents complete penetration of the resin, whereas tinted resin will saturate more deeply into the foam, creating a stronger bond = stronger glassjob.
It makes sense, and a tinted board is highly attractive when done right, so have to assume not more popular just becaused of added cost…?
Although it is true paint does seal the foam somewhat, it also is true that by allowing the resin to not soak so much makes for a lighter board as well. When working for Linden, he stopped buying Clark blanks and went to Walker instead. That foam was super absorbant. The resin made the foam stronger.
Adding anything to the resin just dilutes it. Pigments retard the resin and make it more flexible. The secret purple sauce helps it harden quicker.
Maybe a light density PU foam glassed with a slower kicking resin like Epoxy is a smart choice. 80% of my custon PU boards have been glassed with Epoxy.
I’m an airbrush artist. You can get way more creative with paint. And is more technical than resin. But I do love colored resin as well. Sometimes, a combo of all of them is fun.
Maurice Cole go with epoxy on pu. All epoxy finished by yellowing badly even some are far better now , the ended yellow is horrible. By tinted resin you reduce this problem and you add uv protection to both resin and blank under, not a bad thing for pu wich is not so much stable to uv. You need to add way more pigment than what´s needed to modify noticeably resin stiffness. In some case tinted glass job are easier to do than clear bubbles free. Resin penetration had some Shear strengh and stiffness to foam, not so much but certainly contribute to final durability. I don ´t work with pu for long time but with eps it is noticeable for me, that´s way i stop the acrylic spackle and return to epoxy resin sealer.
Lemat, just wondering how do you do the epoxy resin sealer? Do you do it clear or white, and then paint over?
I looked up a bunch of threads, going all the way back to UncleD posting several years ago about doing colored epoxy foam stain and clear glass jobs. I am just finishing a big red board which I tried that on, and still never gets as even as what your boards look like. Any tips?
I never paint over sealer. I tint my sealer white or color, depend final result and color. Red, and bleu, are hard to do right. If you want to go to trnaslucent effect, for both i would go with a sealer flat and opaque white then translucent lam. Easier way is opaque red or opaque bleu. Easier color to do is yellow, work with all tech. Epoxy foam tints can give nice results, depend of color and foam, but be carrefull to prep them right before lam i see massive lam peel off because wrong prep.
I don’t know about tensile strength and snaps, but with regard to tints and opaques; they defitnally do not dent or pressure ding as easy. This is only something that I have learned from experience. No Sways scientific study to back it up. The Australian
s. Formula blanks line Arcttic and Millenium glass up lite because they don’t suck as much resin. I’ve seen NO increase in delays due to the type or brand of blank, painted or not. L