what is the best tool or method to use when planing the stringer at the nose, deck side? i use a small block plane, but i can’t get a smooth cut??
what is the best tool or method to use when planing the stringer at the > nose, deck side? i use a small block plane, but i can’t get a smooth cut?? …there’s alot of tricky tools to use for flip in the nose,a popular favorite is a mini-spoke shave.Foam E-Z carries them. Gene,and others like J.P.,S.B. and myself usually make a custom planer of some type. Also,there is a nice 4way razor planer made in holland (TOPMAN)that’s killer(it has a curved side like the Clark plane,but set-up better).Foam E-Z carries these too.Herb.
I’ve had good luck using the small sanding drum on a dremel tool for the tip of the nose. later.
how are the curved chinese planers? do they work well?
how are the curved chinese planers? do they work well? If you have the slightest interest in building boards, you Must get tools for the job. The curved wooded Japanese plane is great for this spot on a surfboards rocker. It doesn’t have much use elsewhere, but it’s there when you need it. I had the enlightning experience of seeing some Florida “craftsmen” with a surform being drug sideways to do the final stringer clean-up. Oh, it was a pretty sight! As my good friend Wayne Coombs of Mai Tiki once said to me “a poor man can’t afford cheap tools”
i use a small block plane too but the key is getting the thing razor sharp. if its not sharp enough it doesn’t matter what tool you use
Borrow a electric planer from someone. Its quite efficiency but not worth to buy if you build one surfboard. I use electric planer to shape in the first stage. May be I m not good enough, always over shaped. In avoiding overshape, I start to use small block planer. Its quite good in make good.>>> i use a small block plane too but the key is getting the thing razor > sharp. if its not sharp enough it doesn’t matter what tool you use
If you have the slightest interest in building boards, you Must get tools > for the job. The curved wooded Japanese plane is great for this spot on a > surfboards rocker. It doesn’t have much use elsewhere, but it’s there when > you need it. I had the enlightning experience of seeing some Florida > “craftsmen” with a surform being drug sideways to do the final > stringer clean-up. Oh, it was a pretty sight! As my good friend Wayne > Coombs of Mai Tiki once said to me “a poor man can’t afford cheap > tools” Confuscious say “Do not use hammer to remove mosquito from face.” I hold my Chicago Electric / Hitachi knockoff at an angle, and run it across the nose deck. But I put the electric stuff away when I reach about .1" from final form. Then I use my Stanley spoke shave. I’ve discovered that I can angle the blade so that only one end cuts. I drag it at an angle so that it slices wood. This method minimizes foam snagging. I can actually plane the stringer lower than the foam. That’s not easy with EPS. I plane to the finished level, then fine-sand the foam until it’s level with the stringer. I think Jim would back me up on this. The key to keep from digging into the stringer wood lies in the wood grain. In the nose deck area your stringer grain is usually diving in toward the nose. To prevent your blade from digging in you have to push your plane from the nose toward the middle. If you pull your plane from the middle toward the nose, your plane will stop and you’ll pull splinters out of the stringer. -Noodle
Borrow a electric planer from someone. Its quite efficiency but not worth > to buy if you build one surfboard. I use electric planer to shape in the > first stage. May be I m not good enough, always over shaped. In avoiding > overshape, I start to use small block planer. Its quite good in make good. This is what I always emphisize, use as small as a cut as possible. Overshaping is one of the biggest problems novice shapers experience. We’ll set the twists and other things aside, but just not having enough foam is the real obsticle. I used to take full passes off of 9’5"S’s, it left me with a 2 1/4" thick longboard. I found, much later I could skin the deck and bottom on, literally on next to nothing and net a 2 3/4" board. I have since adopted this policy for all decks and get a much stronger board, plus can utilize thinner blanks for many of my shapes. It is a cost savings and results in a stronger board all around. Micro cuts get you there almost as fast with a lot less whoops.