[img_assist|nid=1060188|title=|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=454|height=601]
Hi Guys,
Latest weekend project. US blanks red stringerless blank, corcell deck vacuum construction. Anyone interested in the details?
Polyester or epoxy. Heck go into great detail with more pics etc.
Nice outline and color. I’m interested to know the dims. I’m guessing 6’5" x 19" but that could just be wishful thinking.
Stringerless needs to be done with epoxy, or the flex will give stress fractures. 4 oz. S cloth bottom. 2 oz under corecell. Single 4 oz S cloth deck. Epoxy hot coat sanded to 180 grit. Gloss coat with polyester resin. Hot coat need to be coarse enough for a mechanical bond.
6’-7" - 12 1/4" nose, 20 5/8" midpoint 15 1/2" tail 2 1/2" thick. Widepoint is 3" behind midpoint. Rocker is 5 3/4" - 1 15/16" - 3/8" - 0" - 5/16" - 7/8" - 2 3/4"
Single concave throughout.
Final weight is 7 pounds 5 ounces.
Weight include fins?
For the artwork… Corecell looks really bad. ugly tan brown. Too pourous to paint Sucks up too much resin, Mix up a epoxy/ microballoon/ cabosil slurry to fill the surface. Painted the surface with lavender acrylic paint. The deck epoxy was tinted with fiberglass hawaii tint. four parts red and one part magenta. then a touch of yellow.
For the bottom, again red and magenta. Rather than empty the bucket on the deck, I strained it through a painters funnel shaped paper/ mesh strainer. Let it flow directly onto the cloth from the strainer in stripes lengthwise. That made a sort of grain pattern. Strange how the color separated, but it looks kind of cool. Airbrushed the black over the hot coat.[img_assist|nid=1060196|title=bottom|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=643|height=851]
[img_assist|nid=1060199|title=|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=579|height=437]
Freelap is for sissies! =-). I like cutlaps. No pinline! Two layers of Carbon over the fins. Sand in a low spot so you won’t get a bump. Laminate the deck, and put the carbon Over the pink. Otherwise you loose the pop of the black.
Then a patch of 4 oz. clear covers the carbon and fin plug.
Rather than a rocker table, a 2x8 was ripped to the deck rocker[img_assist|nid=1060190|title=External Stringer|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=388|height=513]
[img_assist|nid=1060200|title=First rail band|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=312|height=413]
[img_assist|nid=1060201|title=Rail Bands|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=309|height=409]The deck is shaped, but not the bottom.
[img_assist|nid=1060194|title=2 oz cloth wet out table|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=409|height=308]
On a wet out table, the 2 oz is prepared.
Tape off for the cut lap
[img_assist|nid=1060192|title=Masked off deck|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=357|height=472]
[img_assist|nid=1060191|title=Corecell Deck|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=404|height=535] And then put the sandwich with the ripped deck rocker stringer in the
vacuum bag. When it cures, you have your blank with the deck shaped.
The hard part about shaping stringerless is that it is too floppy. With the corecell cured to the deck, the rocker will hold. Now shape the rails and bottom.
Nice board Mark. Don't leave us hanging - keep the pics coming!
Cool build,I have a similar project coming up using different materials.
Hi Huck,
That’s about all the pictures I took. Didn’t have tthe camera handy during glassing, and my hands were too sticky! It hasn’t been ridden yet, so it’s decorating my office right now. I need a free day and a south swell to come together!
Hi Jesus,
Which materials are you using?
Are you skinning the deck and the bottom or just the deck? I found on a previous one that if you skin top and bottom, it becomes pretty stiff. What method are you using to hold rocker during the build?
I’ll be using 2# eps for the core.I’ll be skinning the deck with H80 divinycell,2oz under 4oz warp over.Bottom glass will be a single layer of 4oz warp over a 6"" strip of bamboo run down the center tapering at the nose and tail.I like to shape my stringerless out completely,then glass the bottom doing a cutlap on the deck.I cut the deck skin and 2oz to overlap the cutlap an inch or so, then bag the deckskin on with the board in the bag and everything laying on the block that I cut the blank from.I place a few foam pads and som weights on top of the board to hold its rocker in place.I’m probably going to add the strip of bamboo using the vacbag before I glass the bottom.I’ve found that top and bottom skinned boards feel stiff as well,but I also did one with just the deck 2oz/ bamboo/4oz and a single 4oz bottom and it felt like it had too much flex and would bog.I think the strip of bamboo will add a little stiffness and maybe some flex return.
Hi jesus,
Couple of questions on your build. Why EPS? The PU foam is really getting down in the weight. The U S Blanks Orange is getting close to EPS in weight, without the EPS drawbacks of outgassing and water absorption.
If you are going to stiffen it with the bamboo, why not just go with a stringer?
Do you change your rockers to compensate for stringerless flex.
After this weekend, hopefully I’ll get to try mine out., I’ll add in a review with what I did to get the rocker to work with the stringerless blank.
everysurfer wrote-
Hi jesus,
Couple of questions on your build. Why EPS? Hi Mark,I have access to some really good eps within driving distance so this makes cost per blank really low.I’m also designing my templates on AKU so I can keep track of the volume of my builds. The PU foam is really getting down in the weight. The U S Blanks Orange is getting close to EPS in weight, without the EPS drawbacks of outgassing and water absorption.I found a small hole in one of my boards and had been surfing it for 3 days,I vacced out the water and only found there to be a few milliliters,so it seems to be good foam.I dont seem to have outgassing problems with this stuff either,I have with other eps though.
If you are going to stiffen it with the bamboo, why not just go with a stringer?**I’m trying to fine tune the flex and return in my boards using consistent materials.Wood grains can vary in stringers,along with wood density,I’m also trying to avoid the I beam twisting effect.
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Do you change your rockers to compensate for stringerless flex.**I prefer lower rockered boards due to wave quality here,a 6’1 would have 2"tail and 4 1/2" nose,maybe 4 7/8’ nose for a hpsb.
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After this weekend, hopefully I’ll get to try mine out., I’ll add in a review with what I did to get the rocker to work with the stringerless blank.
I’ve also read about bending the rocker into the foam and how the pretensioned core is no good.So I’ve given thought about cutting a blank with extra rocker,then bending the rocker out of the board giving it an untensioned core.