Just thought I’d share some of my printing experience with BoardCAD (and with AkuShaper).
Print software, the printer drivers (ie. control panel settings on the driver), and the printer itself are sensitive to whether or not we allow a border, and they are sensitive to other paramters such as what paper we choose.
I once installed Poster printing software and it seemed to supercharge me with a borderless/banner-style driver to allow me to choose custom borderless more easily in BoardCAD (my imagination?) but when the printout ran it’s not lined up correctly (not at all). And when I magnify and do it poster-style, I can do this, it magnifies the line size (I just personally don’t like this but YOU might not mind this). I’m not really sure if the Poster software is at fault or not. I don’t know. It’s called Ronyasoft Poster Printer and it cost me 15.00 to license. It’s easy to use and get all the sizing and pages all lined up particularly if you leave the grid on your printout.
So I ALWAYS do my BoardCAD profiles with a border on left and right of 0.125". When I do that, I just have to go to my paper-cutter, cut an 1/8" off each end of the sheets, then put them together. When I do this, the profile pieces DO in fact line up correctly - although the edges of the paper do NOT (ok, yeah, I understand why the papers don’t line up - it’s due to the border requirement, that causes the shift, ok so no problem there). But anyway, I can at least print out a profile, go to the paper cutter, get some masking tape, tape them together and it’s an ok profile. I have even improved on this process by overlaying the thin sheets onto thicker (> 100 lb. paper) so my pen doesn’t crawl under the paper while I’m tracing around the profile. And I always make sure that my left paper guide is good and snug - truth is, this snugness doesn’t matter a hill of beans since the printhead will always be aligned, deskewed etc… relative to the paper, but it makes us feel better. And that the print head is aligned.
But I agree that it’s possible to enlarge a screen snapshot of something and simply hand the image to a copy center. They can probably do it well although I would hope that the line is thin, not thick - just a personal preference. Or you could even “banner-print” or page print your giant image. It should work. I may try this next - haven’t yet saved a giant bitmap or jpg to my hard-drive but it’s only like 8 pages or so for a typical board.
But what bothers me - is why is it so difficult to get a computer, the software and everything to print with NO border so I don’t have to go to the paper cutter? Is it that it damages the print-head? Does it more or less require really good control of the printhead? If they print something wrong 100 times in exactly the same way, why not teach the friggin’ printhead to do it RIGHT ONE friggin’ time?
If I have to buy a 25.00 Lexmark 2670 and it really can do the printing, I’ll do it just to save the paper-cutter step. But I don’t really want a thick line - will it be thick? If so, I may need to run a curve through the middle of the line or something.
But I wish is that I knew WHY there are so many problems. I can always modify the BoardCAD program - I already changed the line thickness so it’s thin. I just like thin lines. But if I need to tweak the software somehow - but will this help? Do I just need to buy that Lexmark? I have an HP6210, and an HP 3210 (still in it’s box). And I have another printer something 5440 or something, also an HP I believe.
I guess for my next waste of paper and ink, I’ll try the Lexmark 2670 - I’ll buy one and try it.
But I guess at least I can cut the paper and they DO line up. The lack of lineup I mentioned above is due to the borders so it’s ok. So far I just trust that everything is ok since the profile pieces DO match perfectly when I cut the paper on my paper-cutter. For now, that’s all I have but at least I can use that method until I buy a new printer. I want to be self-sufficient - the idea of going to Kinko’s isn’t hugely appealing to me. I guess I could try the Kinko’s - I don’t mind spending 10.00 if I really have to.
I’ll do what surfding says if his method works though and if I no longer need the paper-cutter. And if it’s only 0.53 per job, that’s cheap.
And I think I need to understand this whole process better.
Another idea I might try - someone may have already tried this, is to use iron-on transfers - will something designed for cotton work on a wood or woodlike surface. I don’t know if that idea has any potential at all. It’s not necessary for the paper to be transparent - the paper in Staples is whitish in color - but I would LOVE to just line up some iron-on transfer papers all in a row, tape them all up, then FLIP the whole thing over and iron over it onto a piece of wood.
One thing for sure: I’ve wasted huge quantities of paper trying to improve on my paper-cutter method. Not to mention the wear on my printer - which will soon be my printers since I will try the other 2 printers I have.