14 years surfing
lived 3 winters in between hossegor and guethary
surfing is my love, more than tennis, soccer, darts, or binge drinking
before i go, i will be in good physical shape.
regular footed 6.2160 lbsfootsize 43 EU
does that help any?
i will be a 3month trip, not a 1 month stay at Nias
Any other island more laidback than Nias with simple accomodation and F-B , or is that a silly question??
haha what is the best secret spot.
i DO agree that dutch surfers rip… haha
the above post is just some general info on who i am surfing wise, in order to ask receive specific advice
thank you!
6’6" x 18 3/4" x 2 5/26" Thumbtail Thruster
3 5/8" Back fin
11 1/4" Front fin
1/8" toe
Single barrel concave
Good all around board
2 1/4" if you have good cardio?
5 5/8 - 5 3/4 nose rocker
2 3/8 - 2 5/8 tail rocker
That’s my take however based on you will be there for 3 months.
Too Thick and too wide will be boring.
6’6" x 18 3/4" x 2 5/26" Thumbtail Thruster
3 5/8" Back fin
11 1/4" Front fin
1/8" toe
Single barrel concave
Good all around board
2 1/4" if you have good cardio?
5 5/8 - 5 3/4 nose rocker
2 3/8 - 2 5/8 tail rocker
That’s my take however based on you will be there for 3 months.
Too Thick and too wide will be boring.
Cool, thanks a lot.
I will try my ultimate best and make something like that for sure!!
My original thought was 19 inches with rev, vee. The blank already has 2.25 tail rocker and 5 3/4 nose rocker
What is your take on the full concave versus some rev.vee? The answer must be Manoeuvrability , right?
Thanks again!
that board will be too small for you wouter
keep the width and volume through to the nose
you can easily go 20 wide as long as the tail pulls in
nose well over 12 wide… 13 ish
length on modern outlines, makes fck all difference in volume unless you jump 1/2 a bloody foot
volume is what will allow you to catch waves late.
you are my size. i surf hollow waves
if i drop my volume 5 to 10% i may as well give up and go home if its crowded.
a wide,wide nose 6 6 with full rails has a lot more volume then a standard 6 10
72 miniguns that are 18 wide are the crappest board design ever
a wide 67 will catch waves and paddle better then a traditional minigun
this is bare minimum for you on these waves
you are big old man
big old men do not surf equipment that midgets ride
im mathematically illiterat but volume calcs in boardcad show a great deal
say a WQS level surfer at around 65 kg rides 35% his bodyweight in volume say around 22 to 23 liters at 6 1
proportianately at 80 kilos he would be wanting 28 liters and add an inch to the length for each inch the surfer is tall.
now if you say add 6 inches to the board in length on a traditional outline you would be lucky to gain 2 liters more in volume all else being equal.
so there is a shortfall of 3 to 4 liters in volume there.
now lets add in the fact that we are surfing waves of consequence and more paddle makes the world of differnce
and the guys is in mid to late 30… lets increase the percentage to 42 percent
this will give padle to surf all day. volume to get into them and a bit more cuz hes old and a couple more liters cuz hes never surfed heavy waves before.
this boy need at least 33 litters minimum.
id say more like 35 to 36.
the only way he will get this volume without building a longboard,
is by going wider and a bit thicker out to the rail and leaving volume up front
I thought the training vid stuff was interesting too.
Latecomers to this thread might like to see this training stuff people are mentioning.
Friggin good stuff , thanks.
Whether it’ll get me off my backside so I enjoy my surfing more , well that’s another story.
With all due respect to what everyone else has written wouter, if you’ve spent a lot of time surfing the hossegor region, you probably have a fairly good idea of the kind of boards that’ll work for you in Indon.
You’ll find good waves in any season, but you’ll want to choose different areas depending on when you go. May to September will give you the most options probably, and you might want to avoid bali, nias and the more published spots in july/august if it’s your first trip here - it really has been busy and some proper egos in the water over the last few seasons.
Two days ago. Only 1 out 
Paul in most cases your formula is very simular to the one I use.
The references I give are for performance surfing with slighty added volume.
Lets say that a Pro (74.85Kg) rides a 6’1" x 18 3/8" x 2 3/16" = 25.5 liters 34.23% of his body weight
Step up board jumps to a 6’3" x 18 3/8" x 2 3/16" = 26.1 liters 34.87% of his body weight
That’s only a 2.34% increase in Volume and a 0.64 difference in Ratio.
However in Hydrodyamics you are adding more surface area or planing surface which adds a whole other set of factors?
I agree with you in much of you point on volume:
Lets say we make Wouter a 6’7" x 20" x 2 1/2" Indo Special = 34.4 liters 32% more volume is obtained than a Pro would ride.
Considering that Wouter is from the Netherlands and does not get the water time like us who live along coastlines full of consistant breaks.
Give him the volume plus the planning surface and he will be more that covered. He will need a ding kit and he’s off and running.
Attached is a Pro model with the volume increase for you trip.
I think you can open it in Board Cad? It’s a shape 3D file. It’s modified from a PRO Model so it will be better suited for Wouters skill level.
OK Lennox and Paul, let me have it mates?
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/1030704_Wouter.zip
yeah, it is coming along as we write.
my thoughts are to use bamboo veneer to minimize water sucking trouble
[at least into the oustide layer]
take at least one ding repair, maybe 2, sell one off?
i just came back from 3 weeks costa rica
surfed my first reef there, salsa brava - http://www.surfxtc.com/gallerypics/20060526phpWiGDsm.jpg and
only surfed it once though, when i did not have my bottom turns wired yet on this board:
the best surfboard buy was a 6.218.52.5 matt kechele, 14 tail.
quite a challenge to learn how to surf such a short board.
but as time passed i got a better and better feel for it
so for the board, i did not see an attachment, but lets say
6.7 * 12.0 * 19.00 * 13.36 * 2.40 = 28 LITERS
28.48 liters = 1.000 cubic feetwith rails that are 1.33 thick at 1/2 inch from the rail apex @ 3ft2 off tail
0.70 thick at 1/2 inch off apex at 12 inch ot
and thickness
TAIL - 1.25
MIDDLE - 2.40
NOSE 1.26 inch
for general preferance i guess i have to state i like power surfing, not aerials and 180-360 etc…
on the wave surfing, cutback, floaters, hack, topturns, big bottoms and the grale…
the easier the bottom is to shape the better the board will succeed for sure, i am thinking very light vee to concave to vee
but how exactly…? how deep where etc, how much vee…
would be great to make this one all together and me going to comment, a sways custom!
let first define the form, and then go to the compsand part → i have corecell and bamboo veneer at 0.5mm thick.
does everybody use boardcad?
Volume and you from Feral Dave’s site.
http://www.diversesurf.com.au/volume/volume.php
And then a quick look through the board models page has this chart as well which is for his quads but still pertinent.
well im wouters size and i say the board is too small
ive been surfing 24 years and average level(in rotation)
i surf very hollow waves at least 30 times a year that are overhead
on cristmas eve i took my shortboard out it was 5 ft standup barrels
it was 19.1/2 by 6 4 by 2 1/2 thick
it was completely fcken useless
the key here is a non dominant surfer or surfer in too small board is double disadvantaged
because its unlikely he will get a spot in the rotation on the peak
that means scraps down the line
that means even later takeoffs
big waves are not hollow waves
big fat waves are a cakewalk compared to a hollow wave
if you commit to making a barrel or cop one on the head padlling out you can be seriously hurt
my ideal board in say 4 to 5 footHS is minimum 6 7 by 20 wide by 2 1/4 as pictured above
if i was goin to indo and knew id be paddling 200 metes every wave, id take a 6 10 by 20 by 2 1/2
your not going there to turn anyway
but then again if you want to spend 10 grand to be a specatator go for it
more waves for the everyone else
and unles you been surfing quads for a fair while forget about the quad
take what you are confident and familiar with
this off dave site
id you realize that going up longer by 1" on a 6’2"x18 1/2"x 2 1/4"=25.9l short board you will increase the volume by 300-400ml. Yet if you go thicker by 1/8" the volume jumps up approximately 1.2-1.5 litres. Going wider by 1/4" will give you a 700-800ml increase in volume.
see …width is the best way to get volume and leaving the deck flat out to the rails
this keeps the board so your feet spread relative the to the rocker is still performance shortboarding
if you try and get volume from length you are longboarding.
its easy to do it with a thruster
what bugs is people go blah blah get a “FISH” they are wide and flat and go better
but everyone gets all weired when you suggest similar dimensions on a modern rocker and planeshape
WTF
thrusters work perfectly at 20 wide
better then a fcken fish thats for sure
fish are only good for fat peeling waves
the best thing ive ever done in my surfing life is follow lennoxs advice and also another barrel charger i go surfting with
he gets 5 second standup pits on a compsand minimal 7 6 a dn can trun the thing vertical in big surf
this is the board that steve posted that got me on the right track
the width in the nose is critical for getting you in on a pitching wave
Remake!
More volume center point netural.
single barrel concave.
This will work for Wouter.
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/1030705_Wouter.zip
Cool Site. Thanks!
my best mate at one of our spots 
didnt you know everyone rips in NZ
It’s really hard to tell what Wouter really needs? We can only guess at this point?
I think it will be cool to see what he takes on this trip and how it rides?
I most likely don’t make as many boards as you do? I only make about 400 or more?
60% of the surfers I make boards for surf INDO, Hawaii, Mainland Mexico (Puerto Escondio).
I’m 50 so I’m not as in tune with things as you are? I’ve been surfing since 1970 so I’m most
likely out of touch? I still ride a shortboard 6’3 on my thruster x 19" x 2 3/8" which is pretty
thick by Southern California Standards. Most of my friends that ride my boards that are my age ride
6’3" x 18 3/4" x 2 1/4". The guy’s in there 20’s and 30’s ride more like: 6’1 x 18 1/4 x 2 3/16".
If you make a thick shortboard you can’t sell it because no one will surf it unless they are a beginner?
Then again I live in the MECCA of the Surfing Industry and because of the area we live in competive
surfing is as big as soccer is in Brazil. Parents make their kids surf and take them to the beach
before school every morning even if it’s blown out? I make a lot of boards for Groms that go to Indo all the time.
Their boards are 5’6" x 17" x 1 3/4" and these kids rip and ride the barrel deeper than you can imagine.
I think the difference in our options is our Client base? Most of the people I make boards for surf extremely well.
Some are on the ASP tour. I find also that younger surfers adapt faster to conditions than that of older surfers.
20% more volume for Wouter would be my guess? When I lived on the
North Shore 77- 82 I would ride a 6’0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4 at Pipeline 6 foot Hawaiian.
I surfed it every morning that it was good so I had it pretty wire as long as it was under 10 feet.
Now that I am a OLD Man I ride a 6’6" x 20" x 2 1/2" when it’s that size.
Being around so many surfers that surf at a professional level I guess I’m out it?
However one’s fitness level plays a big part in your performance level as well?
Diet can also effect your energy level in surfing.
wouter is not asp level
he probably gets about 1 minute of ridetime a week in mushy surf (most likely far less)
