So I know suncure won’t work with Pigment, but what about with tint? Since it’s not fully blocked wouldn’t some UV light pentrate? You you add less catalyst if using a UV Lam resin?
Surprisingly enough I’ve done some pretty dense UV laminations and it kicked OK in bright direct sunlight. As you suspect, there is some degree of penetration. Under a finbox or someplace where the light won’t penetrate is another story. If you have any doubts, just add a bit of MEKP.
Here is a board I did using UV resin only - no MEKP. Even the black kicked.
Wow thanks, So a good sunny day probably would do it.
Just add a bit of catylist to the colors. Its just Silmar either way.
Colors look great, but how bout that fin?! How’s that ride?
AS long as the resin is not opaque, it will kick. I have done some pretty dark tints using only UV. If you ca see the stringer then your resin is not opaque and you shojld not have a propblem. But the best way is to simply do a small test on a scrap of foam. Also, good rule of theumb is add a small amount of catalyst. Maybe .5%or less.
“Just add a bit of catylist to the colors. Its just Silmar either way.”
Yes! Except for the part about exposure to sunlight or UV = curing! Make sure you use it in a protected room until ready to kick 
FWIW I use UV for all my work, lams, boxes,hotcoats everything. But I catalyze everything as well. The UV cure option makes it easier for me to control the time between steps and a quick cure means smells dissipate sooner. PLus the same small cup of uncatalyzed UV resin in my shop can be used in numerous steps in board building and repairs.
I’ve only used pigments to color resin. I’ve done from all black to light yellows always pigments & FGH UV.
Oxford blue lam I did yesterday finishing off in the sun and a bunch of older examples all pigment + UV.
.02 from a backyarder HTH
Hey BUD!!! Good to see you post. Always like your board pics.
Bud’s gotta be one of the sickest backyarders on here.
Absolutely beautiful work.