Was just in the Sunset Cliffs area this AM. Wow, bet I know where Keith is. Clean north swell hitting, supposed to get BIGGER.
actually I was just down there, everyone is out of the water, it’s gotten very junky shape and the guys who came up the cliffs are all covered in mud from the rain this morning. Whitcaps on the outside, wind blowing out of the north. Ugh.
this is a job for a mat!!!
…ambrose…
It’s amazing the stupid things people do when the Cliffs gets big. Last year on a big swell I went to surf Osprey. When it’s double overhead getting in and out of the water can be very challenging. Some kid tried to get in the water on his boogie board and got swept off the rock and into the cove in front of the arch. His board came off of his arm and got swept into the rocky jaws of the arch. He then proceeded to try to swim in after it. I was all suited up and had my leash tied on my ankle at that point. I jumped in the water and paddled over to him. It took me a while, but I finally convinced him to just give up on the board, since waves were pounding the rocks so hard. He had never surfed Osprey before, and had no idea how to get back out of the water. I knew he wasn’t going to make it out the standard way so I paddled with him all the way over to the beach at No Surf. He thanked me, but I could tell he was still miffed about losing his boogie board.
Poo meter was a 87.9% probability of infectious desease. Too much west in the swell to make it worth the hospital visit. La Jolla reefs were closing out this am. Big Rock was “huge” looking like Pipeline
Looks like it was fun this morning. It’s too bad I slept in…
Looks like everyone else slept in too!
From surfshot @7:55 a.m.
How big can a mat handle??? Does a whitewater take off work well? Definitely interested. I’ve seen pics of boogie boarders at the wedge and pipeline, but the majority of mat photos look like fun trimming slow rollers.
I really like Dale’s belt it out to the line-up, then blow it up idea. Any body ride’ em big?
Sunset on Oahu was going off too! Double O. + with a lite crowd and clean early. I questioned my own sanity being out there…escaped with about 7 or 8 waves and no new aches or pains.
Sending these waves your way Thrailkill. More to follow!
Aloha,
Roger
Thanks Roger. I’ve asked myself on a few occasions, like you describe, ‘’ why am I doing this?‘’ If you catch a wave and make it, the answer is clear. Hope you got some good waves.
The toughest workout I’ve ever had was trying to swim out thru OH+ surf with an inflated matt. Later I started deflating, swimming out and inflate, takes more time but its better than getting the crap beat out of you punching thru, IF you can even get out.
Holding on to the matt in big whitewater after being nailed during a ride is very tough since the power of the water will just ripe the matt out of your hands so I found the best way is to bear hug the matt and ride it out.
It’s real easy to lose the matt in large waves. I’ve lost it twice. Found it on the beach 1/4 mile away at Manresa and on the rocks at inside Pleasure Pt…
I don’t matt in anything overhead anymore unless there’s a channel. It’s just too much work but the speed on a matt in larger surf is scary fast and not just because your closer to the water. The first time I dropped in on an OH wave I almost panicked cause I didn’t know how to handle all that speed. I needed to learn to let the matt take it’s own line and run out down the line with subtle turns without trying force it.
Quote:
I don't matt in anything overhead anymore unless there's a channel. It's just too much work but the speed on a matt in larger surf is scary fast and not just because your closer to the water. The first time I dropped in on an OH wave I almost panicked cause I didn't know how to handle all that speed. I needed to learn to let the matt take it's own line and run out down the line with subtle turns without trying force it.
Over the years I’ve been out on my mats many times in 2X plus conditions… rivermouth, jetty, headland, outer reef waves. The bigger the surf, the more important a deep channel and smooth conditions! The speed is real… 1/4 mile rides can seem to disappear in a blur of only a few moments.
Quote:
Big Rock was “huge” looking like Pipeline
I was out at Big Rock this morning Resinhead, were you out? What were you riding? I agree with you about the run-off, but I’m on antibiotics (bronchitis) so I figured I’m mostly covered. It was good for a while but started to get junked up around 10:30 or so. One wave broke 2 boards out there this morning. Actually one of them was buckled from an earlier wave, but still impressive. I took that one on the head too but my board survived.
Geez,
I’m sitting here waiting for my wife to get home so we can get on the road !
I’ll bet TJs is breaking ! Herb
Hey Herb, you’re not missing anything, it was just big junk surf and after a rain, I don’t think you want to surf where I think you’re thinking about…
Sewage !
We can send a man into space but we can’t keep our beaches clean…go figure? Herb