I started this Stand-up paddle last year when interest in SUP was on the rise. I liked the aluminum/carbon, and all carbon paddles which were available from the professional paddle makers. Since I didn’t really know if I was going to stick with SUP I did not want to spend $$$ for a paddle that I would use only a few times. By making my own paddle I could also experiment with the length, blade width, and blade angles. I got ideas and advice from Uncle D, and Carvenalu. Since then I’ve also read the posts by Dougschuch, Benny1 and others regarding paddle building.
For this first paddle I decided to keep things simple: straight shaft, flat blade, and palm grip. I originally was looking for spruce or basswood since both are strong woods but lightweight. I finally settled on clear poplar and philippine mahogany. Philippine mahogany is a little on the heavy side, but I wanted to laminate it with the poplar for some added strength. All wood was laminated with Elmer’s polyurethane glue.
Laminated blade before shaping
SUP #1 full length
Paddle outline cut with jigsaw and shaping for this paddle was done mostly with wood rasp, surform, files, and sandpaper.
More pics! Last Saturday was an SUP outside Mokuleia Beach Park with a squared-off nose, the guy got a few.
But I noticed one surprising thing: his blade was about 30 degrees to the handle. It seemed to work, but I didn’t think the angle was optimal. It would seem to put the power portion of his stroke well behind where he stood. I would have thought the power section ought to come at 2:00 to maybe a foot or so behind his feet.
Comments on blade angle welcome.
I think canoe paddles are about 15 degrees…? But those are a much differently used tool from a position and strength standpoint.
I think canoe paddles are about 15 degrees…? But those are a much differently used tool from a position and strength standpoint.
not really… blade angle is all about generating upward lift. While a straight shaft to blade works well as long as you’re not pulling past the point where the blade is perpendicular to the water. Any farther, and you’re essentially pulling the board into the water. Increasing blade angle helps that and allows for a much longer stroke.
Basically, you get a much longer stroke and the benefit of lifting the board (or canoe), but its differnet strokes for differnet folks. If you paddle quick and out front alot, you can get away with less bend. If youre like me, average height and with a more fluid, lengthy stroke, use more bend. I go with around 10 degrees.
My buddy EJ is building some ill custom wood paddles here in San Clemente. Maybe he’ll chime in with his thoughts and some things he’s figured out. I keep trying to get him into the sway game…
I didn’t weigh the paddle before cuting and shaping. Finished weight is 38 oz. I’ll get back to you on the specific wood hardness. I reduced the weight on my 2nd and 3rd paddles. I need to re-take the pictures before I post.
Many of the outrigger canoe paddles have 7 to 10 degrees of bend. ACheateaux is right that the bend helps to reduce pulling the canoe down into the water as opposed to pulling/propelling forward. My SUP#2 paddle has 14 degrees of bend, and my SUP#3 paddle has 2 degrees of bend. I’ve been experimenting with different blade shapes and angles. As to told Hicksy, I have to retake the pictures before I post.
Here’s a link to a web page that lists characteristics of various types of wood. Poplar and philippine mahogany are what I used for paddle #1. Poplar is in the tables but philippine mahogany is not.
I built three wood paddles, all work well. Same construction style. I liked mine until a friend asked if I could make something for him. He had broken canoe paddle and said, “maybe you can use this”. Found Fiberglass handled rake at H.Depot. Perfect. Cut off both ends, sanded inside and out. Shaved paddle with sureform, coated with epoxy and slipped into tubing. Did the same with the “T” end. Wrapped with 6oz. and epoxy.
Spaced the final pic, gave it to my friend and he loves it, light strong and inexpensive. $13.99 for rake, $3 in epoxy and glass, 2 hours work. $50 paddle.
The blade is around 20degrees but seems to work fine. Now i’m on the hunt for more broken paddles and cheaper fiberglass tubing… recycle and keep it flowing.
Looks like you’ve done a pretty good job for your “recycled” paddle. I was also thinking of using a recylcled windsurf mast or boom (whichever is thinner and lighter) for a paddle shaft.
Uncle D,
I'll get my act together and put paddle pictures on one post. Actually should be easy since four of my paddles are done.
Your paddle looks beautiful. It shows attention to detail and good sense of aesthetic design.
I do have a couple of contructive comments to make though. I’m not just shooting from the hip: I was a woodworker for over 25 years, and worked and trained in a custom woodworking shop in Germany, as well as having my own custom cabinet / furniture business.
One of the things about wood is it’s sort of alive even though it has been cut and milled. It wants to move. A woodworker has to take that tendency into account when creating something out of wood, because he wants it to remain stable and usable.
A paddle has two things working against it that the craftsman has to take into account:
1: Because the shaft is long and skinny, it has a tendency to warp or bend out of shape.
2: The shaft has one area of extreme stress: just above the blade. That’s where they usually break.
So, the laminations of contrasting woods has another purpose besides looks: It strengthens the shaft. THE MORE LAMINATIONS, THE STRONGER THE SHAFT.
Grain direction is also very important for strength. As you look at the end-cut of the long pieces used for the shaft, the annual rings should be glued up so they are perpendicular to the blade. In my opinion, three laminations is not enough. Warping is almost inevitable. Five or six would be much stronger and much more stable.
I hope you take my comments in the spirit they were given: passing on some useful knowledge acquired by learning from others, and by making mistakes of my own.
Personally, I prefer the beauty of wood, but, less time spent and the difference in weight can be factors in pushing me in this direction.
I’ve seen the Kialoa paddles upclose, very nice, very costly. I haven’t seen those Surftech paddles.
Just looking for something to save money and time and that is still useful. Witnessed one of the boys here snap his carbon paddle, right about where your bottom hand grips. So, better to have a backup and why not have it be inexpensive?
[Grain direction is also very important for strength. As you look at the end-cut of the long pieces used for the shaft, the annual rings should be glued up so they are perpendicular to the blade. In my opinion, three laminations is not enough. Warping is almost inevitable. Five or six would be much stronger and much more stable.]
I really did not look at the grain / rings when laminating the shaft. My subsequent paddles were also all poplar instead of different species of wood. Still experimenting with the design (shapesand angles) phase.