I am resurecting a dream of a very big board… a lot of guys helped with ideas last year, when I first started to look at boards beyond 10 feet…
Here’s the deal–I am 5’10, 150 lbs. I am looking for a board that will serve as a paddle/surf hybrid.
Here’s my ideal surfing experience–paddle out from OB (san diego), paddle to the Cliffs, surf all rights to Ralph’s (or untill I’m tired), turn around, surf all lefts, paddle home (yes, that is Frye inspired). Total distance covered–12 to 14 miles roundtrip. I am a strong paddler (college swimmer 5yrs ago) and I stay in shape…so I don’t feel the need to go too long with this board.
I am thinking that it will be in the 11 foot range, not too sure about glass…
I spoke to Mike Eaton about this. He has a board for this that he does semi-frequently… he described it as: semi-narrow, square tail, 3 stick, some belly under the nose–i.e., tail of a longboard, nose is a hybrid that will guide water efficiently along the board.
Anyway… advice? Suggestions?
Obviously this will be expensive, so I’d like as much info as possible before I lay the cash down.
I have a friend who has one of those Eaton hybrid paddle/surf, you might want to test-surf one before you commit. I really didn’t care for the way it surfed, although it paddles sweet…
Mike is a super guy. If he says he can make something that will work for what you want to do, he’s not blowing smoke. I had & sold a 14’ Eaton paddleboard and now I sport one of his 16’ Unlimited customs.
Winter or summer? How about head high and under… For those of you unfamiliar w/ Sunset Cliffs, most waves are pretty slow, good longboard/hybrid waves at any size.
Does anyone know of anything similar avaliable for test drives in the SD area?
yup, the surf is mushy and slow there, all the time.
But seriously, the type of hybrid I’d want for a summer long paddle/surf would be different than one that might have to take off on an 8 foot face or better.
Or maybe you aren’t thinking of taking it out if its big. I don’t know.
I can ask my friend with the Eaton hybrid if he’d be willing to loan it out. Or maybe he even wants to part with it, dunno…
How does that big board ride? I’ve looked at pics of it a few times…and it sure looks nice. What type of waves? Belly in the nose? How many have you made? Fill me in with all the info.
How abouut an outrigger canoe. Hang a suitable board from the akas. paddle with a paddle. Unfold a lightweight kite and have it help you if the wind blows from the correct direction. paddle the outrigger by itself in local races. Play your uke while waiting for ther tide to change.
I love my 12’er for the early entry and down the line projection…I’ve surfed mine at Un-Named PNW Points, Sand Dollar Beach, Cojo, and Westport…In each of those venues, it worked great…I find that it’s best from very small to big perfect point peelers, Bigger clean beach breaks, and at Cojo, well it was the perfect board to sit 75 yards beyond the pack and pick-em up from way outside and deep…Drag a hand bottom turn, pull high into the pocket, let the nose drift down, let the fin pull up and be SLOTTED for 100 yards…Wave after wave…
A friend, north of me, has a Parmenter - PSV (Paddle Surf Vehicle)…Here are some of his thoughts:
“I surfed a 12 0 only- during a south swell camp trip this summer- and it was a huge eye opener !!! Just loved it - as well a challenge to actually drive the thing…”
“I have a particular 12 0 wave that works best on low, low tides with big west or moderate SW swell- up in (Un-Named Region)- its a rare breaking epic long (6-1000 yds) sand bottom rivermouth left - and this past June on the 12 0 had one my best waves ever anywhere!!! I caught it by complete surprise and I swear that session was like a bolt from above - Since then I’ve been all over the 12 0, but I’m very picky about where and when its used- I do not completely trust surfing it with crowds of generic nature —Over crowded surf breaks and 12 0 s don’t mix at all…most surfers are so painfully unaware of the possibilities.”
Belly in the nose?
Yeah, like a rolled vee, something to cut through the chop…It’s not a noserider…I have a lot of Vee in my tail, a flat panel vee that extends about 3 ‘ up from the tail…It loosens it up a lot from rail to rail…And I have a consistent mid board belly on mine too…
How many have you made?
One foam / fiberglass…I’m starting a hollow wood one after Christmas…
I was looking at the pics of your 12’… It looks almost like a really stretched out longboard… Flat all the way through? Is there anything specific about it that makes it work? Rocker? It looks somewhat Frye-ish (only because his boards are my main reference point for this style).
Does anyone know of any shapers that specialize in this style board? So far, I know of Frye, Eaton, Parmenter… Obviously getting ahold of Frye will be tough, Parmenter is in Hawaii (I think), Eaton’s shop is down the street from my house and he’s actively taking orders…
I’ve also seen the Ace and Kane Garden big boards, and the Munoz Surftech.
I was looking at the pics of your 12’… It looks almost like a really stretched out longboard… Flat all the way through?
Not even…
Is there anything specific about it that makes it work?
Belly roll through the middle, and the flat vee panels in the tail…It’s gotta be thick, yet thin out at the rails for water to wrap and hold while surfing…Narrow helps too…Oh, and a very vertical fin so it pivots easy…Put that all together and you’ve got a fun one…!!!..
