It was a long patient wait for everyone today, constantly checking
what was happening out front until the conditions came into our favor.
Probably just around noon and things started to look enticing to me.
And a small crew too. Winds were a bit off, switching around from every
direction but offshore through the 1st 1/2 of the day. There was a
slow but steady progression of people making there move. Swell was
solid…2x overhead and sometimes a little more. It never really fully
cleaned up, but there were those moments when the upreef wash calmed
right down, a little puff of good wind pushing towards Grajagan, and
smooth clean surface conditions coalesced with a set. And if you got
one when all those elements came together, you were gonna a good ride.
Bombora breaking right from the start of the day. Low tide and like i
already wrote…solid swell. Tide rose and a 1.6 meter high at 2 met up
with the beginning of the real good ones. Money Trees trying to
double-up off the Bommie roll-throughs and a few lining up long. The
Fang probably the best today by the proof of Norris’ photographic
evidence. I had the wrong thoughts and decided to hang on Money’s
proper and then sit on the Ledge. Could have been worth it if i caught
that ONE which did for sure come through. Launching Pad into some upper
upper Speedies working a little bit too. But 1.6 meter high isn’t so
high at all. Needed to be real selective if your intention was on the
opposite side of kamakazi tendencies.
Basically a little tricky today, but nice to feel the longer period swell roll into the point.
WATER chilled down even more. I got bone-chilled through the late evening session and came back in with the shakes. YUP…