Not really, but has anyone noticed when surfing a hollow wave with
power that even when it seems to be critical to make a section where you
might be tempted to trim into the fastest line, that often (not always),
if instead you sink a rail and blast some high G-force turns you will
still make the section that you thought only the shortest path of a good
trim would do - hence the “fastest path between 2 points is not a
straight line”. Pumping is a small version of this I guess.
It seems that there is some sort of conservation and transfer of
energy going on. As you gouge the turn you are putting energy into the
board (like the way you transfer the energy of your swinging legs to get
a swing going), once at the top you are now on a steeper more powerful
part of the wave closer to the energy centre, then a bottom turn does
the swing like thing again, etc etc.
Has anyone noticed this or is it my imagination, or alternatively,
yeah, yeah we all know this why are you bothering to state the obvious.
I love that feeling when you can see a long, long wall ahead and a pitching section, and instead of racing for it you just blast off the bottom as vertical as you can and gouge off the top and still make the section. Probably only done that 20 or 30 times in 40 years of surfing but I think I could remember every one of them if I put my mind to it.
Was going to take today off and go for a surf, but fisheries reported a 5m GWS 20m off the point that I was going to surf, so I went to work instead… bummer.