Surfboard bottom profile ..... which better ?

General Discussion
1

To all better surfer ,

Getting a bigger board 6"6’ for indo surf , what bottom design better for fast hollow wave 4 ~ 6ft (from the back) .

Cheers …

Andi Malaysia …

2

DEPENDS !!

“better” is in the eye of the owner.

For glassy conditions, and riding too small a board, some amount of concave is nice for lift and early planing.

For choppy or strong offshore conditions, a belly/flat to V is the fastest, and smoothest riding if you keep the board on the V.

You might be mixing up the locals by judging Indo waves from the back.

3

LeeDD ,

What about Channels bottom , always wanted to try one . I’m gonna use it at Cimajah (West Java) .

http://www.gotours.com.au/Cimaja%20Point%20Resort.html

How do u measure wave size in U.S ? In Malaysia we judging the face , Indo jugde from the shoulder …

Thanks .

4

Channels are really cool if you like a loose feeling board that you can place anywhere on the wave face. They feel fast enough, can’t say if it’s really faster or not than anything else.

Hard to shape, hard to glass, don’t see many with finbox’s.

I measure by height, perpective from shore, as low as possible…higher makes the waves look bigger.

Average surfer riding just before doing a bottom turn is around 5’ tall. If the wave is twice as high as he is, then it should be considered DOH, or barely.

5
Quote:

Average surfer riding just before doing a bottom turn is around 5’ tall. If the wave is twice as high as he is, then it should be considered DOH, or barely.

Unless you ride in Newport Beach, where the average surfer is about 3.5’ just before a bottom turn… and unfortunately, the waves are rarely twice as high as that.

6

So a ten foot face is double over head? Where are you from?

7

I’m from SanFrancisco, now living in Berkeley.

Sure, why not. Isn’t DOH supposed to be double overhead, or am I wrong here. Considering the fact that I’m the guy who started the DOH club at Wise Surfboards, I might have some insight there.

Oh, I’m also the guy who rode the 3 tubes in Natural Art, inserted into A Sea for Yourself, the section on surfing in SanFrancisco. All three YOU’D call DOH.

I’m also the guy named in NewYorker mag about a really big day (some say 6x overhead), where I’m FAMOUS for NOT going out, but one of the guys who are expected to be out there.

Hey, when you plan a match with NorthernCal’s #1 ranked A Mens’s tennisplayer, you gotta show!