I am 50 yrs. old. Been surfing since I ws 15. I am only an average surfer, don’t travel a lot exept to France ( I live in Channel Islands, English channel). I have riden boards ranging fron 9’6" first board to 5’6" fishes back to 6’4" thrusters (twin fins, all types toooooooooooo) to modern longboards (bring back some speed) and now trying to get back into some performance !!! Bin making my own boards for a couple of years, longboards (no problem, they’re easy )& shorter boards, they’re not. Now riding an 8’4" noserider and a 6’5" roundtail thrustr. Tried old style fish, hybrid fish etc, etc. etc, but what is the perfect board for an old, disabled ( 80% ear closure, bust hip, bad back from doing what?) guy who still wants to surf good and hard. The short board(6’5" tooo small) and the 8’4" tooo big (longboard style). Perhaps a fungun??? I thought ( don’t forget I ride prdominantly beach breaks, good where I live, no better in France believe it or not, just more consistent)a version of the fun-gun!!! How about 8’0", 12.5" x 21.5"x13.5"x2.75" with 6"nose & 2.75 tail rocker with hard in tail rails to soft in nose with doulble to single concave botttom and modern shortboard rocker profile ?? I sthis going to do it? Hard off the bootom, quick and hard off the top and plenty of built in power and glide for the old spastic guy, ie. me. Hey guys, let me know cause I’m fed up with longboards and can’t cope with short slippers ( I cn cross step, hang five, float, even get abit of air but need to feel in control). HELP
sounds like it might be a good board for you, I have a swallowtail board about those dimensions that works pretty good and I’m in my late 40s – although I prefer to go with a shorter board for beach breaks, the 8 foot board is better on reef/point breaks.