The following link will take you to 4 articles about basic Surfboard Hydrodynamics that were published in Surfer Magazine (1969).
The articles were written by former Sways member, Terry Hendricks, Ph.D. (I believe his member name was mtb.)
If you want to do more than speculate about the basic hydrodynamics that affect surfboard performance, these articles are well worth the read at 2 pages per article.