I purchased these vents on Amazon. Just looking at them, I don’t see how they could vent anything. Looks like solid plastic to me. Am I missing something?
The screw doesn’t come out?
I’m not sure , it’s been a couple of years now, but if I remember right I drilled the holes in those plugs myself. If they were open you could easily mess them up when setting them in epoxy.
I’ve never installed one.
Looks like there should be a hole in the bottom.
But as Jasper points out, resin would seal the foam under the vent plug when installing (which would block venting).
Unscrew the threaded part and drill a hole though the insert once installed and the resin has cured. No worries about plugging up pre-made air passages.
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Oh Good! those plugs are made like they must be, closed for set in boards then drill for vent. Same as fcs sup handel…
Problem come from nut, we try many one’s from exotic countries, cheap but not work right. Original gorevent work better but expensive.
Problem with self venting system is need to be clean with clear water each use in salt water and if water go in board it go to vent from core and it don’t work any more. All in all not so good. For reliable efficient cheap venting go with screw but don’t forget to open/close it !
I thought venting was of the old days? When would you still go for a vent? With eps lower than 1.9 density?
Drill hole straight thru after insert is set and cured. Vacuum out any dust in the hole or it’ll clog the vent. If the board has a stringer, you drill the venting holes angled to vent both sides. If you want this to sit flush, counterbore for the flange then bore the main hole. Plug the hole, laminate a patch over, then sand over and cut out any cloth left. Surface mounting these inserts isn’t good unless the board is thick like an SUP; thin boards will flex and the insert will come loose and leak. I originally designed this insert (back in the day) to retrofit into import SUP’s; something that could be done in a warehouse. FGH still sells my straight version (US made vent) which was intended for OEM builds. Like anything else, it’s usually more work and risk if you go cheap. BTW, regardless of EPS density it’s still 80-95% air so not much different than a hollow-core in terms of internal volume expansion when heated.
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Al eps should be vented an must be if exposed to high temp. More you have volume and lower density is eps more you should be vented. For me automatic goretex valve problem is fiability so if i really need a vent system i put a screw and educate user.
For most care use, a well made board with at least 1.25# eps good quality don’t really need vent.