Surfers from Makaha late 60's

First off, I fnally found a forum where I can discuss some of my times surfing Makaha from 1966-December 69. Guess its time for me to act my age and talk about some of my times there.

  1. Witnessed the shark attack on Licius Lee March of 69

  2. My last day in Hawaii I surfed Makaha early December on that big day.

  3. Watched Joey Cabell win Makaha 68 with the changing of the guard to smaller, quicker surfboards.

  4. Met and surfed with a lot of pretty cool folks. The Sunn sisters, Buzzy Trent showing me how to line up off the point, good friends with Craig Wilson who won Makaha in 70, and so on. I was a skinny goofy foot in my senior year of high school back then. Went back after 35 years and a lot has changed including me (I am not that skinny).

Just want to share some of my time back then with others from that time and place.

Aloha Tom,

I lived on the point, at 84-246 Makau St. , '67 and '68.      Makaha was home break.      I was back there a few years ago, and yes, it has surely changed!      With the exception of Carlton Beal’s house on the point, the homes in the area appeared to have gone downhill.     I surfed and skindived on a regular basis with Buzzy, in those years.      He was a master of both activities.      Like you, I was many pounds lighter then.    I had visited my friend Dr. Marshal White, for 3 weeks in Nov. 1969, and missed that Dec. '69 swell, by less than a week!    Marshal had a nice house on the point, at Maile Pt.,  and was a regular surfer at Makaha as well.     Welcome aboard Swaylocks, nice to have some folks with some history, on the west side.


Surfed with Doc White a couple times. Between he and Buzzy I felt small. Doc was always class. We called that home off the point the “Millionaires Home” for lack of a better term. Small pool carved out of the reef in front of the home. Buffy was so laid back, he is going to live a happy life for a long time. I am trying to contact a friend of mine named Craig Wilson, class of 70 Waianae High School. My favorite surfing place was Yokahama as I could face the wave going left. I describe Yokahama as a short paddle out and a short swim in.


I didn’t even go to the Islands for the first time until '84.  Uncle Buff was out on a boogie board.  He was very cool and friendly.  Loaned my new Rusty to a local guy and he was out on it for about three hours.  i just reclined under a tree until he brought it back and thanked me with a big smile.  When my Hapa cousin found out from her brother I had gone out Wainae she got upset because I was soo “off da boat”  white.  She was worried somebody might “first crack”…  That “Drive-in” at

Wainae was pretty good food.

Craig Wilson was a great surfer with a classic island style one of my favourites to watch. I once wrote a story about him and was contacted by his son to thank me. I have his sons email address if that is of any help to you. Cheers

Please send my his email address via a private message.