the sequence and pace of life is easily skewed
the reset button is the drop and turn
the coincidence of the apex of speed and pressure to fulcrum a turn aligns space time and gravity
the presence of water provides the exposure to the negative ions and VIOLA gott’em zap twangin of froggie’s magic twanger…the mat although simular is more of a surender and finessed application yet the presence of the ion bath seems more accessable…aaaahhhh as opposed to Grrrang…ambrose…
Is the inside of the wave just another bezier handle that you can pull out to match that moment of inertial bliss? On the screen those clean curves start to look like everyone else’s (clean curves) mouse in and join the ranks, march on down to the beach and paddle out in unison. Why not scan them in rob the bank of the forefathers who smoke while they sand scotch at the end of the day another job well done you better jump in the shower before you get in bed, dear. Analog copy of a digital shaped board? Where’s the challenge in that… Those that remember doing the archers pose up front of center delicately balanced on the wave face drawing a line through and around - now that was a prolonged ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh. The stick the tail in the pocket and wiggle your ass Reef generation won’t even get it - they’re waiting for the bell to ring and the printer spits out another golly-gee-wiz look what iDid! just gotta sand down those ridges shape. I’m already thinking ahead to my vacation dropping in on a Neumatic™, but I’m going to make my own flippers out of wood - bert and sabs (fin) style - you see, they really haven’t changed much since Tom Blake published his thoughts (#2525) and I want to explore the future just a tad more before ashes to ashes dust to dust sweep the floor of the shaping room and come to bed, sweetie.
not shure if i get the last one…but surfing does have its fix…coming down from even a bad day surfing is like drugs…i live about 10 min from the beach and by the time i get home im in a much worse mood than was all day… good waves last me a little longer…real good maybe ill make it a day or 2…i think i have a problem…seriously…hello my name is have, and im a heavy surfer…hi have…
Hi ambrose - missed this when it first came up. Get the computer working any better, or just “going for it?”
Well, I for one think about that notion quite a bit, and living inland, it vexes me on a regular baisis.
Thanks for the memories, and thoughts for the future, but right now… I’ll try and make the best of what I have.
Fixative…blows my mind, slows my mind, stops my mind. My molecules begin to separate without it. A mind moving too fast is crazy. A mind slowed notices life. A mind stopped is god.