what is your everyday short board reccomendation for Haleiwa. for someone who rides 6’4"x19"x 2 3/8"
What size Haleiwa? It’s much different than most other NS spots, for the unfamiliar probably go a bit bigger board, At 1.5xoh and up, it’s a fat takeoff that suddenly stands up when it hit the middle.
Been surfing Haleiwa since the 70’s, but nowadays only go when it’s thumpin.
Less than head high, lefts & rights, crowded, noobs
Head high to 1-2 foot overhead, playful, mostly rights. CROWDED.
West swell @ 1.5xoh-2xoh, from here, the current increases exponentially with each increment of size. One of the best high performance waves in the country. Tricky, shifty, long fast walls. Rights. Did I mention current like a river? Crowded. Most ride a bit bigger to get in early and have the drive to make sections and big carves.
2xoh+ wooohooo! Its a rush, heart thumpin fun, crowd thins way out, most people watching from shore. Pounderous lots of water moving around. Current is nuts, like no where else. Brown water. Broken boards. Caught inside most just let themselves get washed in, go-around the tbowl rather than fight it.
My .02. Your mileage may vary 
Ride your normal shortboard dimentions. After 6ft the current starts to get heavy so more length wont hurt
Quote:
What size Haleiwa? It’s much different than most other NS spots, for the unfamiliar probably go a bit bigger board, At 1.5xoh and up, it’s a fat takeoff that suddenly stands up when it hit the middle.
Been surfing Haleiwa since the 70’s, but nowadays only go when it’s thumpin.
Less than head high, lefts & rights, crowded, noobs
Head high to 1-2 foot overhead, playful, mostly rights. CROWDED.
West swell @ 1.5xoh-2xoh, from here, the current increases exponentially with each increment of size. One of the best high performance waves in the country. Tricky, shifty, long fast walls. Rights. Did I mention current like a river? Crowded. Most ride a bit bigger to get in early and have the drive to make sections and big carves.
2xoh+ wooohooo! Its a rush, heart thumpin fun, crowd thins way out, most people watching from shore. Pounderous lots of water moving around. Current is nuts, like no where else. Brown water. Broken boards. Caught inside most just let themselves get washed in, go-around the tbowl rather than fight it.
My .02. Your mileage may vary
What he said… Nice bottom turn BUD!!
Haleiwa is a special place for me… I learned to surf there and grew up hanging out there and at the Harbor with my Dad… Lived right down the road… Have tons of friends there… Now that I’m older its funny how the wave and spot are so addicting… Sometimes other spots are just firing but I end up at lesser waves at Haleiwa just because I can surf with a smile there with friends… When its small its such a mellow wave with all our kids are out surfing and having fun… The Blue Tent is up and you can always find interesting conversation under there… Hehe! I love Haleiwa and everything about the place… Ones things for sure though… When its big, it can get very gnarly… Nothing like west swell grinding Haleiwa!! Ahwoooooo!!!
When its like this, its soooo rippable! Beware when its 8’ Hawaiian size and bigger… It doesn’t look pretty like this! Haha!