This has nothing to do with surfboard design - today - but I just had to vent…please bear with me. I’m from Hawaii, and have been living on Long Island (in New York) for the past several years. They have pretty O.K. surf here - better than one might expect for such an assumedly unlikely place (albeit inconsistant as hell {and the locals will attest to that}). After a summer of the rottenest surf I’ve seen in years, today was to be one of the best days of the year, thanks to hurricane ERIN , very close by - in the Atlantic. It was a beautiful day, in New York, this morning…slight offshore breeze, 68 degree water, and 80 degree weather. The surf was, indeed, brilliant - 6-8’ and some bigger sets. Absolutely perfect…but I couldn’t really enjoy it. On my way down to the beach, this morning while passing over a bridge that separates the “mainland” from the barrier beaches, I saw military jets swooping over me and wondered, “what the f#@* ?!”. I pulled close to the bridge, and there were these two kids motioning me to look to the west. From the peace of this idyllic morning, I looked over to see giant billowing clouds and fire emanating from the horizon. You could clearly see a column of smoke pluming hundreds of feet into the sky. “what the hell is up?”, I asked the kids. “Turn on your radio, bro!”, they told me. I flipped on the car radio and heard the news that the world trade center had been run into by TWO commercial airplanes. As we watched in disbelief, the second column of smoke rose to the sky right in front of our eyes. It was the other tower of the world trade center. We stood looking at the horror show, and went on our seperate ways. I figured I’d hit the beach to take a look at the surf, but had this horrible feeling of guilt that I was thinking of my own pleasure, while all the people in Manhattan were - quite literally - under attack. I got to the beach, and the surf was unbelieveably beautiful…6-8 foot glass…and this happens, here, only occasionally. So I went in…I had perfect waves, but the longer I stayed out, the more visible the black cloud of smoke got…leaving a formerly cloudless sky…blackened all the way to New Jersey, to the south. I had to come in…it was just too overwhelming. Driving home, there were - now - tons of people on that bridge I’d come over - earlier . At this point, you could see flames mixed in with the smoke. When I think of the beautiful sunsets I’ve experienced here…after a really good surf into the evening, and how I used to look at the New York skyline off to the west on that very bridge…the silouhette of the Empire State, chrysler, and world trade buildings off in the distance…I realized that people I know and love were in that building (it had only clicked in, well after the fact). I know that things may be alot different in this town, and in America for that matter, after this - I just hope that some of my extended family and friends have made it out O.K. this afternoon. Stay well, all of you, and thanks for listening ; Aloha a hui hou, Tom.
This has nothing to do with surfboard design - today - but I just had to > vent…please bear with me. I’m from Hawaii, and have been living on Long > Island (in New York) for the past several years. They have pretty O.K. > surf here - better than one might expect for such an assumedly unlikely > place (albeit inconsistant as hell {and the locals will attest to that}). > After a summer of the rottenest surf I’ve seen in years, today was to be > one of the best days of the year, thanks to hurricane ERIN , very close by > - in the Atlantic. It was a beautiful day, in New York, this > morning…slight offshore breeze, 68 degree water, and 80 degree weather. > The surf was, indeed, brilliant - 6-8’ and some bigger sets. Absolutely > perfect…but I couldn’t really enjoy it. On my way down to the beach, > this morning while passing over a bridge that separates the > “mainland” from the barrier beaches, I saw military jets > swooping over me and wondered, “what the f#@* ?!”. I pulled > close to the bridge, and there were these two kids motioning me to look to > the west. From the peace of this idyllic morning, I looked over to see > giant billowing clouds and fire emanating from the horizon. You could > clearly see a column of smoke pluming hundreds of feet into the sky. > “what the hell is up?”, I asked the kids. “Turn on your > radio, bro!”, they told me. I flipped on the car radio and heard the > news that the world trade center had been run into by TWO commercial > airplanes. As we watched in disbelief, the second column of smoke rose to > the sky right in front of our eyes. It was the other tower of the world > trade center. We stood looking at the horror show, and went on our > seperate ways. I figured I’d hit the beach to take a look at the surf, but > had this horrible feeling of guilt that I was thinking of my own pleasure, > while all the people in Manhattan were - quite literally - under attack. I > got to the beach, and the surf was unbelieveably beautiful…6-8 foot > glass…and this happens, here, only occasionally. So I went in…I had > perfect waves, but the longer I stayed out, the more visible the black > cloud of smoke got…leaving a formerly cloudless sky…blackened all the > way to New Jersey, to the south. I had to come in…it was just too > overwhelming. Driving home, there were - now - tons of people on that > bridge I’d come over - earlier . At this point, you could see flames mixed > in with the smoke. When I think of the beautiful sunsets I’ve experienced > here…after a really good surf into the evening, and how I used to look > at the New York skyline off to the west on that very bridge…the > silouhette of the Empire State, chrysler, and world trade buildings off in > the distance…I realized that people I know and love were in that > building (it had only clicked in, well after the fact). I know that things > may be alot different in this town, and in America for that matter, after > this - I just hope that some of my extended family and friends have made > it out O.K. this afternoon. Stay well, all of you, and thanks for > listening ; Aloha a hui hou, Tom. Amen my friend.lying,stealing,cheating and acts of cowardice justcan’t be tolerated or allowed-ever- no matter if it’s just your kid doing it or somone on a larger scale like today.
I am without words…beside myself…my heart goes out to all that is effected by these tragic acts of violence…all…if you would like to help,DONATE BLOOD! Thank you for your time.Herb.
Thanks Tom – your words are heartfelt. As long as you’re sharing I guess it’s not to out of place to share my story. I got the call here in SF at about 7:00 am. I thought it was going to be my buddy giving me the am surf check but it was another friend shouting over the phone to turn on the tube. And so began this god aweful day of shock and disbelief. Immediately I called my Brother (real brother) who lives in NYC to see if he was OK. Got his cell phone and left a message. Twenty minutes later he calls back also in total disbelief. Dave was phoning from eastern Long Island near Montauk just after getting out of the water. He was also in shock. The waves were perfect (!!!) and the Twin Towers were crumbling to the ground. Even more shocking was the fact that he was scheduled for a morning appointment in the Borders Bookstore in where of all places – the GROUND FLOOR OF THE WORLD TRADE CENTER. He had cancelled the meeting to go surfing. Today, I also got to surf. SF was showing a beautiful clean SW groundswell that was hitting the beaches almost perfectly. I surfed, however, to get off land and get away from this truly unbelievable tragedy. I’m still in shock. Everybody in this nation should get a flag, fly it high and be thankful that we live in a free country – in a great country. Aloha, Swaylock
.So my love and I make love in the sand to celebrate our last days on dry land but before we put our feet into the the sea we bid our bodies farewell, Starfish and sea creatures greet us as we slip in but before we go we turn to notice…the Killing Noise…The Killing Noise…
This has nothing to do with surfboard design - today - but I just had to > vent…please bear with me. I’m from Hawaii, and have been living on Long > Island (in New York) for the past several years. They have pretty O.K. > surf here - better than one might expect for such an assumedly unlikely > place (albeit inconsistant as hell {and the locals will attest to that}). > After a summer of the rottenest surf I’ve seen in years, today was to be > one of the best days of the year, thanks to hurricane ERIN , very close by > - in the Atlantic. It was a beautiful day, in New York, this > morning…slight offshore breeze, 68 degree water, and 80 degree weather. > The surf was, indeed, brilliant - 6-8’ and some bigger sets. Absolutely > perfect…but I couldn’t really enjoy it. On my way down to the beach, > this morning while passing over a bridge that separates the > “mainland” from the barrier beaches, I saw military jets > swooping over me and wondered, “what the f#@* ?!”. I pulled > close to the bridge, and there were these two kids motioning me to look to > the west. From the peace of this idyllic morning, I looked over to see > giant billowing clouds and fire emanating from the horizon. You could > clearly see a column of smoke pluming hundreds of feet into the sky. > “what the hell is up?”, I asked the kids. “Turn on your > radio, bro!”, they told me. I flipped on the car radio and heard the > news that the world trade center had been run into by TWO commercial > airplanes. As we watched in disbelief, the second column of smoke rose to > the sky right in front of our eyes. It was the other tower of the world > trade center. We stood looking at the horror show, and went on our > seperate ways. I figured I’d hit the beach to take a look at the surf, but > had this horrible feeling of guilt that I was thinking of my own pleasure, > while all the people in Manhattan were - quite literally - under attack. I > got to the beach, and the surf was unbelieveably beautiful…6-8 foot > glass…and this happens, here, only occasionally. So I went in…I had > perfect waves, but the longer I stayed out, the more visible the black > cloud of smoke got…leaving a formerly cloudless sky…blackened all the > way to New Jersey, to the south. I had to come in…it was just too > overwhelming. Driving home, there were - now - tons of people on that > bridge I’d come over - earlier . At this point, you could see flames mixed > in with the smoke. When I think of the beautiful sunsets I’ve experienced > here…after a really good surf into the evening, and how I used to look > at the New York skyline off to the west on that very bridge…the > silouhette of the Empire State, chrysler, and world trade buildings off in > the distance…I realized that people I know and love were in that > building (it had only clicked in, well after the fact). I know that things > may be alot different in this town, and in America for that matter, after > this - I just hope that some of my extended family and friends have made > it out O.K. this afternoon. Stay well, all of you, and thanks for > listening ; Aloha a hui hou, Tom. I work in Atlantic City, NJ. At 9 o’clock on the 11th I went out on the baordwalk to look at the swell that was coming in from Hurricane Erin. Solid 6 ft. plus with offshore winds, the best I have seen here in along time. I was cursing myself for taking Monday off in anticipation of the swell and not Tuesday. But after work I planned on running home getting my board and going out. I returned to my office at 09:30 and watch the events unfold all day. At 3:45 I left work, the swell was still pumping. I got home hugged and kissed my wife and daughter and we all went to church. The swells pretty much gone this morning, the 12th, but its not important. God Bless everyone. h2ofxk
Yesrterday was one of the worst days EVER. I’m still feeling numb and I’m sure this will continue for quite some time. We will cope, but we will never forget. My prayers are with and for all of us. We’re blessed,guys. Surfing and the family that stems from it is a beautiful thing-let’s not take these things for granted. Anyways, lots of ALOHA to everyone. Be strong and God bless us all.
I appreciate these posts. It’s an awsome feeling to see a country that has been so caught up in bipartisan issues for so long come together and support the nation. It is sad it has come about because of such a horrid event. God bless.
It was good to hear all of your words, and I’m especially glad to hear that Dave is O.K., Mike. Throughout the day, many stories of people who’d just missed being killed in that building have come to my attention in very profound ways. First, my very close neighbor’s daughter, Tiffany, was LATE TO WORK, and was coming up the subway station to the trade center - when she saw the second fireball coming out of the second tower to go up. She got several cuts and bruises, but made it out O.K. (and was doubly spared the horror of seeing the plane actually fly into her building…as her co-workers had{most of them made it out alright}). The extreme blessing I received has eradicated my guilt about surfing yesterday…as I have since learned that over seven of my surfing bros who happen to have worked in that building - saw that it was more important to surf once in a while, than to make money. these guys ( unacquainted with each other, as it turns out) decided to PLAY HOOKEY FROM WORK, and were spared probable death. They love life, and thier love of surfing has actually spared their lives. That 8 foot plus swell of yesterday was completely gone today…a testament to the lack of this place to really hold a swell…and a real wake-up call with respect to the meaning of “here today, gone tomorrow”. I am glad you are still with us mattthew and jeremy! (and the rest who made it!). Aloha; Tom.
I thought I had pulled it off. I just started my vacation and since my wife had to work I ask her if she would rather I glass a couple of boards in the garage this week or fly out to San Diego to camp and surf for a couple of days. If worked perfect. Tues morning I was on a flight from Charlotte to San Diego when this thing came down. We diverted to Dallas where I was stranded for two days. I finially scored a rental car and drove the 20 hours home…I do believe our way of life may have just changed forever…
I was at work in Chelsea on tuesday, already cursing because I couldn’t take off to Rockaway when the first plane hit. We all ran up to a window and watched as the second plane ripped through the South tower. Shocked and terrified, we all huddled around the tube as the towers took the big drop. Tried to call anyone who had anything to do in Manhatten that day. Quietly wondering how I’d get to Rockaway… People are crying because their husband son brother mother were in that building and your worried about perfect lefts… and then your own hide. I work with my roomate and all we wanted to do was get to the beach. Somewhere we felt was safe. Work finally said we could leave… The group bound for brooklyn started off. Everybody left in groups for safety. Nobody knew what the hell was going to happen. Airforce jets screaming overhead were reasuring like a dentist drill. We had to walk 4 miles or more to Brooklyn, over the Williamsburg Bridge. Half way across, another wayward surfer, a neighbor from the Bungalow next door, called and was also trying to get to the beach. I won’t go into the bomb threat called in on the bridge at that same time… Two and a half hours after we left the west side, three scared surfers were driving out to the beach. Listening to WABC, just like everybody else, trying not to look behind us, just like everybody else. We slowed down on the bridge, looking for our towers, seeing smoke instead. At the Bungalow, our friends who had the fortune to surf the morning were resting up, cooling out with beers watching and listening with awe and shock, glad to see us greeting us with “you guys really missed it…” Thinking the same thing about them… happily. I got barreled. And the next day Wasn’t that Flat guys!!!