Greetings all,
I’ve been in the game for over 20 years, have worked at shops, and for several shapers. This is re: a step-up board in my quiver. I purchased a TL2 Rusty Kerr model 6’2" brand new as a step-up board a little less than 2 years ago. I’ve only ridden the board a handful of times, less than 12. I am quite anal about my boards so I have rinsed (then dried) it with fresh water after each of these few sessions, anytime the board has been out of the water is has been in a boardbag or has been inside my house out of any sunlight. Ive stripped and rewaxed a few times and the board is yellowing pretty bad allover but is still pretty white where the wax goes. I’m trying to see if there is a way to restore the white color to the board. I had heard that there were problems with the resin used on the TL2s and have several friends who have experienced the same quick yellowing of their new TL2s. Is there anyway to get my barely used board back to a more pristine condition? It still rides great but for a board that (at the time) had a nearly $900 msrp, the yellowing is making it hard to trade in/ sell b/c it looks like I didnt take proper care of it. I have many other boards that are much older, have been used more, and are still much whiter. thanks for the help!
I have seen these TL2 boards with the segmental yellowing. I don’t know how to achieve the “whiteness” you are aiming for.
But I think a picture would help, so that others who might know what you are searching for can see what we’re talking about.
Cheers.
Howzit surfsausage, If you bought it froma shop I would take it back and raise some hell about the yellowing and if you can find other documentation about the same thing then print it up and take it with you to prove it is a defect in the making of the board. See what they have to say about it since you have the documentation to back up your problem. I hate to say it but that is what happens when you buy a pop out board. Aloha,Kokua
I've seen many a TL2 go from front row to the used board rack in the shops, due to yellowing.
TL2's are essentially a "compsand" - EPS core surrounded by a skin of high-density foam and then fibreglass.
The skin foam used is Rohacell, though Cobra calls it something else.
I've made a number of composite boards using Rohacell, and hundreds in various brands and colours of skin foam, epoxy resins and finishes. None of the High-density foams are formulated to be the exposed cosmetic colour, so how it is finished is the issue with clear laminated boards.
While not perfectly Ice-white as new, my personal Rohacell boards have not yellowed as with the TL2's I've seen.
The reasons are - "New-school" UV stable epoxy resins - Resin Research, Fibreglass Hawaii, RevChem, Kinetix 104, BoteCote.
And 2pac polyurethane clear finish.
These are critical cosmetic details which the TL2's may have missed.
If you like your TL2 but are put off by the yellowing, I suggest taking it to an auto panel shop to be coated in white 2pac.
JD
yep.
this is a job for a cool auto paint job…
the stuff a couple years back
was called emron(SP)
a two part high gloss a delic momma jumpin
arz kickin’ —PAINT—. yes natalie he said paint.
blow chunks epoxy always carried the stigmata
‘TURNS BROWN’ so you gotta anticipate painting.
You win …you get to paint it !
some scallops and flames and mermaids on unicorns
or fire truck motif or black and yellow nascar bumble bee
Bardal
sombody call chip foose!
This vehicle was designed and built exclusively for Mr. Calvin Clark of Palos Verdes, Calif., publisher of International Surfing magazine and contractor, for $22,000 in the 60’s. The car was designed for street use plus exhibitions throughout the nation.
lemonade thet what ya make from a yellowing
surfboard made by some techknow ilogical
experimental surfboard building industrialists.
the price will grow exponentially…
you have won.
…ambrose…
[quote="$1"]
I've seen many a TL2 go from front row to the used board rack in the shops, due to yellowing.
TL2's are essentially a "compsand" - EPS core surrounded by a skin of high-density foam and then fibreglass.
The skin foam used is Rohacell, though Cobra calls it something else.
I've made a number of composite boards using Rohacell, and hundreds in various brands and colours of skin foam, epoxy resins and finishes. None of the High-density foams are formulated to be the exposed cosmetic colour, so how it is finished is the issue with clear laminated boards.
While not perfectly Ice-white as new, my personal Rohacell boards have not yellowed as with the TL2's I've seen.
The reasons are - "New-school" UV stable epoxy resins - Resin Research, Fibreglass Hawaii, RevChem, Kinetix 104, BoteCote.
And 2pac polyurethane clear finish.
These are critical cosmetic details which the TL2's may have missed.
If you like your TL2 but are put off by the yellowing, I suggest taking it to an auto panel shop to be coated in white 2pac.
JD
[/quote]
So josh does this mean its purely cosmetic?? If so i'll keep a look out for a cheap one. Plenty of fashionista's out there who dont want a yellow board hahah. No offence to the original poster.
I'm saying the choice of Rohacell over any number of skin foams in a plethora of ugly colours is cosmetic, yes.
In typical applications - wind turbine blades, train carriage walls, rocket nose cones etc etc, the composites are invariably laminated with pigments, painted or gel-coated. UV stability is then not an issue.
These pics are a Rohacell skinned shape versus Divynicell -
JD
rohacell u v protected compsand
cheers huie
Howzit Brother Brose, Emron paint was /is one of the most toxic paints out there and I don't know if they even still make it. I used it a few times painting my own cars and it was a great paint but I had no idea how toxic it was. Aloha,Kokua
Thanks for the help everyone. Upon further research, I think getting it painted is the only way to go. I talked to a surftech rep and was basicly told that the yellowing happens over time, no matter how well you take care of the board. He told me that the yellowing is actually comming from the compsand core and not so much from the resin itself.
I added this particular board to my quiver b/c it does seem to have the flex characteristics of a regular PU board but with the durability of an epoxy. I wanted a board to take on trips with a little less worry about dings, etc. Im generally not a ‘pop out’ fan but at the time this seemed to be a great option for durability without sacrificing performance.
So, to anyone who is thinking of purchasing a TL2 for similar reasons, I wouldnt recomend going with an actual TL2 but instead get your local shaper to glass your board in epoxy, it will still be cheaper than the $850msrp of a TL2 and you’ll get the durability that you may be looking for.
Oh well, lesson learned. an expensive lesson at that!
http://www.airbrushing-made-easy.com/
http://www.chuckbauman.com/realistic-flames.htm
oooooooooooo flames !
…ambrose…
or maybe a nice puppy.
butt never a hot chick in a bikini.
Howzit Ambrose. Now those are some nice flames and I like the classic car also. Aloha,Kokua