Over the next two weeks, we will be polishing up the problem
statement, objective and scope of project. But here is the
rough idea:
**BACKGROUND
**For decades, the surfing community has built
an impressive qualitative understanding of how a surfboard interacts
with the surfer and the wave.
**PROBLEM
**A qualitative understanding of water
pressure, water flow, surfer acceleration, surfer velocity, and skin
elongation(surfboard flex) has limitations. While it is rarely disputed that
these phenomena exist, it is regularly disputed which one(s) is
dominant and it is uncertain how they interact.
**SOLUTION
**We will
quantify water pressure,
water flow, surfer acceleration, surfer velocity and skin
elongation. This information will be synchronized
with video of the surfer and the surfer will record a personal
account of the feeling he/she had in each maneuver in each wave.
Everything that is recorded will be correlated with what surfing
visually looks like and sensually feels like.
**TESTS
**-3 surfboards of
identical shape and weight, but one has standard flex, another will
be 20% stiffer, and the other 20% more flexible.
-3 surfers of
nearly identical proportion, weight, and fitness: one Pro, one
Advanced, one Average
-Various days, various wave conditions, but
all three surfers will be surfing simultaneously for a 1.5 hour
session. They will switch boards every 30 mins.
-data and video will be constantly streaming, capturing all aspects of the session
POSSIBLE CONCLUSIONS(in
no particular order)**
**-in
what way and how much does a board’s shape change while surfing
-how does a board’s shape-change
effect acceleration, velocity, water flow, water pressure
-how does acceleration, velocity, water flow and water pressure affect how the board changes shape
-how does a recoil rate affect acceleration, velocity, water flow, water pressure
-what is the recoil rate in various maneuver
-what is the recoil rate that
looks best (video)
-what is the recoil rate that
feels best (personal account)
-will all skill levels like the
same board or will the ideal flex be different for each surfer
-which flex was best suited for
which skill level in which wave conditions
-when a board eventually
breaks…what are the actual forces that broke the board
-do at-home-tests like Mike
Daniel’s load-deflection test or Benjamin Thompson’s resonance test
actually correlate with real surfing
-are lab tests representative of
what is going on while surfing
-what is the velocity of a
surfer and how do maneuvers affect this
-what is the velocity and
direction of water flow and how do maneuvers affect this
-is there a resonant effect that
occurs while turning. If so, how does it affect acceleration,
velocity, water flow, water pressure. Does it correlate with an
enhanced visual display or personal feeling
-is resonance different for
different skill levels
-more possible conclusions will
surely come to mind, but feel free to throw in some more!!!