My life is a series of twists and turns.
my good fortune at coincidently winning ‘the blank’ at
two raffles was not overlooked by the observant.
Lee V’s donated prize was also won by the same guy two years in a row,himself!
The travel board experiment was an acommercial alternative to the synglefyn Jello
Commercial undertaking,requiring 100,000 invested $?
at the privately funded tune of undisclosed donated hours
this travel board experiment is still a rousing success
without a pusher of sorts like john mellor’s
un rivaled effort at organising the swayloholix
annomyus events at plaskett creek
everything of this nature happens slow.
windansea had Thor Swensen
Ussa had Hoppy Swartz
Makaha had Wally Froseith
these people dedication is historical
there are ecological niches
unfilled,or if unfilled unsung
with heros in place of another nature
that actual water time is not a priority
nor is family ,work or obtuse art projects
the fact that these organisms surface
periodically are a blessing and
we all benefit.
the driving force of the commercial market place
to put equiptment in the hands of talented young surfers
STARTED BY ST> DALE
is perhps the most positive aspect of the surf industry.
the slow perversion of this ethic over the years of constructing
agnostic guns for hire is of course the unfortunate turn of the worm.
back to the dream time thinking on this
northern southern thought projection
last round I flased on the great race
{ the other driving force in human conciousness}
how bout a northern southern surf race
each board circling the hemispheres
with a start date and points for documented surf stops
riding both good and bad waves
and surviving condition of board durability
aka abusive riding and good repair
any how is the board on its way to oregon?
another hundred and fifty thousand automobiles left San diego this morning
were any of them swaylock mobiles?
Inquiring minds wanna know…
are any aussies coming to my house this spring Fall?
from western australia?
where’s derek?
…ambrose…
humilitty is ego food
n’est ce pas ?
?es verdad?