ok…a t-band stringer is a stringer made up with a few diff. strips of wood??? what are the properties (color, strength) of the diff. woods: basswood, cedar, balsa, and spruce?
foam stringer??? so i could get a black 1" center foam stringer, w/ 1/8" cedar stringers on either side???just as an example… so many options , i love it
yes you can. you know the issues with dark colors. someone here said it was a pain in the ass because the colored foam seemed to sand down faster than the rest. also, the colored foam jacks the price way up.I wanted it for a wedge stringer on my 11’ but decided not to when it added like $35-40 to an already pricey blank. Maybe cheaper on smaller boards, dunno. you could always paint it.
teddy, As JR said, lots of issues when ordering. On foam T-band it’s expensive. The nice thing about your 1" foam T-band is strength through the fin. You can sink your fin box and leash plug between stringers. I’ve done it. It rocks! The rest of the board will break first. To save money, order a wide blank with just one stringer in it. Split the blank one inch away from the stringer, and glue in another stringer. Then you move the center of the board over 1/2 inch on the blank. You have to plane the deck rails symetrically, to where you want them. You can’t just take the same thickness off of each deck rail. 'Course… First you have to find, splice, and plane the 2nd stringer. Good luck, Noodle
teddy,>>> As JR said, lots of issues when ordering. On foam T-band it’s expensive. > The nice thing about your 1" foam T-band is strength through the fin. > You can sink your fin box and leash plug between stringers. I’ve done it. > It rocks! The rest of the board will break first.>>> To save money, order a wide blank with just one stringer in it. Split the > blank one inch away from the stringer, and glue in another stringer. Then > you move the center of the board over 1/2 inch on the blank. You have to > plane the deck rails symetrically, to where you want them. You can’t just > take the same thickness off of each deck rail.>>> 'Course… First you have to find, splice, and plane the 2nd stringer. THATS A LOTTA WORK TO SAVE SAY 20-40 BUCKS —TIME SPENT DOING IT STRAIGHTENING OUT THE BLANK I THINK THE MONEY SPENT MIGHT BE WORTH IT UNLESS YOUR TRYING TO LEARN TO DO THEM ALL ON YOUR OWN OR YOU HAVE YOUR OWN MILL SHOP------BY THE WAY T-BANDS ALL ARE WORTH THE EFFORT FOAM & WOOD THE FINISHED PRODUCT IS UNREAL > Good luck, Noodle
teddy,>>> As JR said, lots of issues when ordering. On foam T-band it’s expensive. > The nice thing about your 1" foam T-band is strength through the fin. > You can sink your fin box and leash plug between stringers. I’ve done it. > It rocks! The rest of the board will break first.>>> To save money, order a wide blank with just one stringer in it. Split the > blank one inch away from the stringer, and glue in another stringer. Then > you move the center of the board over 1/2 inch on the blank. You have to > plane the deck rails symetrically, to where you want them. You can’t just > take the same thickness off of each deck rail.>>> 'Course… First you have to find, splice, and plane the 2nd stringer.>>> Good luck, Noodle Whoa there Noodle, I have to disagree on the offset theory. I made the mistake of taking Clark up on a great deal, a run of 2 stringer blanks that were cut on center with the second stringer 1 1/8" out. It threw the symetry of the whole blank out of whack and I shape a lot of whacky foam. The entire crown of the blank was wrong, the thickness was off center also. For the 25% discount, the mental and physical work out wasn’t worth it.
I agree with Jim and CDB. I have a pretty well equipped wood shop and have been thru it all.Spend the extra bucks and build a really nice board.
what are the properties (color, strength) of the diff. woods: basswood, cedar, balsa, and spruce?
I agree. It’s worth the extra bucks to order the blank split properly at the factory. When I made my foam T-band board, I ordered the T-band built in. But it was an EPS blank, rectangular outline, flat deck and bottom. The symmetry problems of a 2nd offset stringer would tough to overcome, but doable. But when you return symmetry you would remove more of the higher density shell foam from the un-split side of the blank. The board’s balance would always be slightly off.
Try this website. It should answer your question re: wood properties. Keep in mind that wood varies greatly in quality from one stick to the next. I’ve had 1st quality Clark blanks with curved stringers, knots and weird grain direction changes sometimes on the same stringer. It can be a pain but I can see where the cost of using “perfect” stringer material might be prohibitive. http://www.wdfinder.com/woods/woodindex.html
what are the properties (color, strength) of the diff. woods: basswood, > cedar, balsa, and spruce? Check out http://www.brucejones.com/strength.htm Discussion of different stringer wood species and their strength. regards, Håvard