Let me explain: I’m almost done with this 6’6"x20x2.25. I’ve given it an arched cutaway in the tail, as opposed to the regular fish-tail “V” type cutaway. I’m debating on the tail’s bevel. Just about all the cutaway tails I’ve seen have the bevel sloping down from the deck, while the bottom side of the tail stays flat. I’ve seen a couple where there is no bevel at all…the tail just ends flat at both deck and bottom sides. My question: What would happen if I made a bevel sloping UP from the bottom of the tail? I haven’t seen this on any boards around here. Would it just sink easier, creating more drag? Of could it help with slicing carves on steep drops? Or does it matter? What’s the theory on this? Any thoughts??? Thanks…deeb…
Let me explain: I’m almost done with this 6’6"x20x2.25. I’ve given it > an arched cutaway in the tail, as opposed to the regular fish-tail > “V” type cutaway. I’m debating on the tail’s bevel. Just about > all the cutaway tails I’ve seen have the bevel sloping down from the deck, > while the bottom side of the tail stays flat. I’ve seen a couple where > there is no bevel at all…the tail just ends flat at both deck and bottom > sides. My question: What would happen if I made a bevel sloping UP from > the bottom of the tail? I haven’t seen this on any boards around here. > Would it just sink easier, creating more drag? Of could it help with > slicing carves on steep drops? Or does it matter? What’s the theory on > this? Any thoughts??? Thanks…deeb… Deeb, if you are shooting for a 6’6" ride and you want it to slope up from the tail, you’ll have to increase the length of the board a tad. See, water will be released a little sooner if you slope it up from the bottom. I would also push the fins up a tad. My educaated guess is the the board will be a little slowed but you will have a bit more control–you are correct. What would be the gains?..a little control? Truthfully, I wouldn’t do it. However, experimentation is one of the best things about custom board making. BE sure to report your results. Thanks. Steve
I do a lot of chine(bevel) boards.The chines help a wide board go on tne rail easier and keep it loose. I usually end the chines at around 18" from the tail. My chine boards tend to be fishes around 6-8 to 7 foot,wing swallows between 21 and 22 wide, chines about 8 inches from the nose then flowing right off the wings with the tails kept flat. For wide boards they’re really good in the tube as the chines fit the steep wave face really well. Tom Morey puts his chines right on the tail and says they work great. My experience is that where the outline narrows it reduces the need for the chines. These boards with double concaves, low rocker, 5 fins and epoxy construction are the ultimate fun toys!!! ps: show aloha in the water, it keeps it fun!!!
Let me explain: I’m almost done with this 6’6"x20x2.25. I’ve given it > an arched cutaway in the tail, as opposed to the regular fish-tail > “V” type cutaway. I’m debating on the tail’s bevel. Just about > all the cutaway tails I’ve seen have the bevel sloping down from the deck, > while the bottom side of the tail stays flat. I’ve seen a couple where > there is no bevel at all…the tail just ends flat at both deck and bottom > sides. My question: What would happen if I made a bevel sloping UP from > the bottom of the tail? I haven’t seen this on any boards around here. > Would it just sink easier, creating more drag? Of could it help with > slicing carves on steep drops? Or does it matter? What’s the theory on > this? Any thoughts??? Thanks…deeb… Just do it…if it doesn’t work, do another one…