Thinking about doing a tail block and I’ve never done one before. All I know is you just chop the foam off and resin the wood on. Any advice or caution I should know about? Does regular sanding resin work okay? I’m thinking about using solid teak or mahogany but don’t know exactly how big a piece I’ll need (is 3"x6" enough for a 6" butt?). Or should I even bother with a tail block? Thanks…By the way, thanks for the “V” advice Jim…
Thinking about doing a tail block and I’ve never done one before. All I > know is you just chop the foam off and resin the wood on. Any advice or > caution I should know about? Does regular sanding resin work okay? I’m > thinking about using solid teak or mahogany but don’t know exactly how big > a piece I’ll need (is 3"x6" enough for a 6" butt?). Or > should I even bother with a tail block? Thanks…By the way, thanks for > the “V” advice Jim… I think Jim (phillips) is your tail block man to, he made the most beautiful tail and nose (not wood) on my board. He used glas en resin like fins are made, made a model of the nose and tail curve than glassed a lot of layers in this curve, than sanded this so it would fit and glassed the board. This is no square block kind of thing but it follows the railshape and thins out about 7" from the nose and tail. (the board is a pintail). I’m shure Jim can explain what he did ten times better than I do. Peter Rijk
I think Jim (phillips) is your tail block man to, he made the most > beautiful tail and nose (not wood) on my board. He used glas en resin like > fins are made, made a model of the nose and tail curve than glassed a lot > of layers in this curve, than sanded this so it would fit and glassed the > board. This is no square block kind of thing but it follows the railshape > and thins out about 7" from the nose and tail. (the board is a > pintail). I’m shure Jim can explain what he did ten times better than I > do.>>> Peter Rijk Interesting I was going to post the same question. I have heard you should cover the shaped black so the dust from the block doesn’t get on the foam and that you attatch the block w/glue. I once asked Randy Rarrick about the process and he said that he attatched the block to the shaped board then shaped the wood . Would it be a bad idea (and why) to pre-shape the wood close to the finished dimensions (leaving it slightly larger). I made a tail block using koa and some zebra striped wood that I plan on using. I know the hard wood is going to be difficult to work with but I have a lot of patience. Any advise on the proceedure would be much appreciated.
Thinking about doing a tail block and I’ve never done one before. All I > know is you just chop the foam off and resin the wood on. Any advice or > caution I should know about? Does regular sanding resin work okay? I’m > thinking about using solid teak or mahogany but don’t know exactly how big > a piece I’ll need (is 3"x6" enough for a 6" butt?). Or > should I even bother with a tail block? Thanks…By the way, thanks for > the “V” advice Jim… I don’t know how the pro’s do it, but I’ve had really beautiful results with the following methods. First of all I would advise against using teak as it is a very oily wood and resin will not adhere well. Avoid any resinous wood(I’ve seen micro-delaminations on brand new boards @ redwood blocks),Basswood, spruce and mahogany are good choices and contrast well. My method is to saw the shaped blank plumb and square with a backsaw (or a razor-saw)and adjust very slightly with a sanding block, if needed (it helps if you try to imagine you are creating the slightest concave from rail-to-rail). Mate up the block so that there is little or no gap between the block and the foam. Trace the circumferance of the foam around the block, plus about 1/8". Sketch-in the plan shape of the tail-block plus about 1/8". Bandsaw or otherwise shape the block to the traced section and plan penciled lines. You should now have a rough shape of the intended tail-block. Bond the tail-block to the foam with laminating resin with a little cabosil mixed in, to the thickness of mayonaise. Tape the block in place while the resin kicks. Get yourself a Stanley block-plane (Tail-block Plane?)and make the plane iron (blade)razor-sharp. If it will not shave hair off of your arm it’s not sharp enough! Taking smooth and even strokes, shape the block to the final configuration. support the block with your free hand while planing and always try to plane “downhill” to avoid tearing the grain. You may want to protect the foam with masking tape if you’re scared of dings or scratches, but I find it’s not really necessary. Shape it 90% with the plane (sound familiar?)and touch-up with sandpaper. Blow the dust out of the foam with compressed air and stand back and admire your beautiful artwork. I glass the block just like a normal tail. If you think the wood may have oil or resin, wipe it down with acetone prior to glassing so that the resin will bond. This may also prevent minute bubbles that form as wood oils get hot as the resin kicks. I find the shaping of tail blocks to be really pleasurable (about an hour)and they really set-off a board’s looks. Sorry if I’ve rambled too much, but I hope this helps. I’m interested how Jim and the other pro’s do them. Good-luck
Rich Harbour was the one to show me the world of tail blocks…as far as gluing goes I use either hotmelt or 5min. epoxy.Herb.
Thinking about doing a tail block and I’ve never done one before. All I > know is you just chop the foam off and resin the wood on. Any advice or > caution I should know about? Does regular sanding resin work okay? I’m > thinking about using solid teak or mahogany but don’t know exactly how big > a piece I’ll need (is 3"x6" enough for a 6" butt?). Or > should I even bother with a tail block? Thanks…By the way, thanks for > the “V” advice Jim… NO teak, No polyester resin. I use 5 min. epoxy, band saw the block to the shape of the tail or nose. Apply only a minimal amt. of epoxy, I hate the stuff oozing out all over the place.Tape in place. When set, remove tape and mask off with 3/4" tape leaving about an 1/8" gap between the block and the foam. I stagger 2 more layers of tape, this acts like a sanding shield. Put on an additional piece of 2" tape. This will give you about 4" to work on without marring the foam. I use my sander on low speed with #50 grit paper and work it agressively.You can apply a great deal of pressure on the tape before the sandpaper will start to cut into it. After tuning it top and bottom with the sander I use a sanding block to finish, running with the grain only. On glass tail blocks this does not apply. Pull the tapes when satisfied and lightly sponge screen. P.S I have seen some TERRIBLE tailblocks that looked great when the board was done. Peter Rijk lives in Holland and I made him a board with glass mitered nose and tailblocks. The colors were like the Yikes/Stripes Beachnut Gum. The only confirmed sale I made with 7,000.oo$ worth of advertizing in Longboard Mag.
Thinking about doing a tail block and I’ve never done one before. All I > know is you just chop the foam off and resin the wood on. Any advice or > caution I should know about? Does regular sanding resin work okay? I’m > thinking about using solid teak or mahogany but don’t know exactly how big > a piece I’ll need (is 3"x6" enough for a 6" butt?). Or > should I even bother with a tail block? Thanks…By the way, thanks for > the “V” advice Jim… Just a note to all of you trying your first tail block, don’t go out and buy a bunch of exotic hardwoods…check out your local furniture or woodworkers shop, these guys usually have tons of scrape blocks in the sizes you need…I’ve found that they are willing to float the scrapes if you tell them what you are doing and hang around for a minute and talk (maybe comment some of their handywork). Also, If you can’t find a nice peice of wood to do your block, take a few thin peices, glue and vice overnight…instant laminate block, good opportunity to be creative.