What i’d like to know is — can I just, like, re-glass the whole tail again right over the whole thing? That is, no sanding away all the existing good glass — just literally cut like a stretch of fiberglass, lay it over the whole tail, epoxy it and lap it like usual?
Will glass adhere to glass? or do i have to sand the entire tail back down to the blank to do that?
If that’s the case I’d rather patch. But i’m hoping i can just re-fiberglass and lap the whole thing right over the existing glassed tail w/ burn throughs.
You could glass over it, you could fill it in a bit with epoxy and glass spheres and white pigment before you glass it, you could opt for a wooden tail block…
The glass will cover and seal but will not ‘fix’ any large deviations in the shape of the blank.
Definitely just re-glass it with two layers of 6 oz lapping deck to bottom around the whole zone. Then feather the glass edge flush and re-hot coat and sand. Always good to have extra glass in that zone anyway as the leash puts alot of stress there. Don’t know why you’d want to put a tail block on a 5’6" fish other than aesthetics. Will add a whole host of potential problems in the install. Just re-glass it.
Hey everyone — 2 layers 4 oz. cloth over the tail worked like a charm. I’m sanded and back in business.
Bonus question, please weigh in!!! This time (board #5) i opted to install fin boxes (FCS II, thruster setup) AFTER lam.
It went GREAT. best routing experience i’ve had. perfect clean boxes. I just installed them.
May I ask your advice? — I was considering taping them closed and then doing a football patch of glass over each BEFORE doing overall hotcoat. It just seemed…smart.
Can you think of any reason why not? People keep expressing concern about how well they’re seated. Thoughts?
yes you have to put football patches over them if you install after lam. There is no strength to the install if they are just epoxied into the routed holes.
This is where peel ply is always handy to have in your shop. I always reinforce nose and tail prior to final coat of epoxy or gloss coat for you PE resin guys.
It might take 2 seperate patches to pull off but you place the wet out fiberglass patch(or patches) over tail na nos area. Have a larger piece of peel ply over patches and tape over peel ply for a super tight fit. When cured, take tape and peel ply off carefully and hand sand then continue.
Attached pic is what I describe on a rail that is being repaired. Usually comes out perfect with a light sanding touch to complete.
Found a pic of a burn through with above recepie. Can’t find pre repair though. Pics of removing tapre and peel ply after 1.5 hour cure. 30 seconds of sanding before final coat of resin.
