This was posted on another thread, with jumbo computer-freezing pics, but kinda got lost among the 3500-plus other posts in that thread. I downsized the pics, here’s the story again…
Probably more than one way to go with this.
First of all, you paid too much for a busted board.
Second, what a headache. Next time, just use black poster paint or acrylic for the stripe (do a test to check for compatibility with the resin). I’ve even cut black artist’s tissue, the kind kids use at school, and made stripes (pic below). I prefer to put any pin lines under glass, unless its a resin pin line.
I would sand back to the resin, you’ll probably lose the stripe, or parts of it anyway, add the black stripe as above, then re-coat with resin.
I’m sure someone will have a better idea, but that’s what I would do.
Looks like a nice board, and a nice repair otherwise. Hope you get it back in the water for lots more waves! Welcome to Swaylocks.
Thanks Huck, especially for re-organising my post. I’m a better repairer than surfer, but even worse on a computer.
Hoping to get a start on the repairs tomorrow afternoon. There’s a few onion peel dings I was hoping to repair as part of the process. I’m thinking of using a router to make space for a pieces of foam, glass them, then try out my new toy - an airbrush. I want to try colour matching the repairs as best I can.
You are right. I did spend too much on the board, but it was just after Donald Takayama passed away and I think a few others like me wanted it and got too enthusiastic with our eBay bids. The seller was pleased to see the repairs, and I like the idea of making something that destined for land fill being used again. Can’t put a price on that IMO.
I didn’t see any mention of the type of construction on this board. Is it PU/PE, or EPS/epoxy? I ask because I can’t see paying for over-priced West resin if the board is PU/PE. The pics seem to show that it’s PU/PE, but I’m uncertain.
Yes, it’s a PU board. I used West epoxy as I thought that wouldn’t cause any compatability problems and be the easiest way to go. Didn’t realise it was over priced. I only do repairs for myself and a few mates so cost isn’t too much of a factor. I’m more concerned with getting an alright finish that does the job. I’m still learning but certainly willing to try out something new. Besides, I enjoy the challenge.
I’ll have a go with Huck’s suggested fix and see how it turns out. The resin I’m about to use is not West but Kinetix 104 with 130 hardener. It’s supposed to be compatable with PU/PE finishes. Used it once on a small rail ding repair for a mate, and it looks fine.
The repair itself on the Taka is fine, just trying to fix the look of it. I only take it out in small waves as I’m too worried about it breaking again after all that hard work I put into it. It’s definitely top heavy now so once you break the lip on a wave it just takes the drop and off it goes - nice and stable.
I don’t know mate ; I think you are a better surfer than you are repair man. I don’t know the reasoning, but you made several basic mistakes in repairing this board. Poly is Poly. You had no reason to use Epoxy on a Poly glass job. Secondly NEVER use lacquer with any kind of resin. Poly or Epoxy. Huck gave you solid advice on pinlinnes type of paint etc. You paid $200 too much for this board. Personally I wouldn’t have repaired it unless it was given to me or only if it was a dumpster dive. For the money you’ve got in that board you could have bought a blank and the materials to glass it. This is common mistake here at Swaylocks made by beginners They hear all the talk and see all the posts about Epoxy and Krylon, exotic fabrics etc. A large amount of info on this site is not norm in Pro repair or glass shops. If you got your tips from Sways and went down the wrong path I for one apologize for so much Mis-information. Be more thorough in you research next time.
Yeah, I reckon I’ve made more than a few mistakes, but hey, it’s my time and my money. You learn from mistakes, and I am definitely still learning.
I use epoxy because I’ve done a few minor repair jobs on other boards of mine and for some mates, and from I’ve read it’s the safest to use for most types of boards. By that I mean putting poly on EPS causes major destruction. So I chose to buy one type of resin only.
As for buying the raw materials and starting from scratch, whoa - way beyond my abilities. In doing repairs I have gained an appreciation for how a board is made and the work that goes into making one. Those who can shape, like Donald Takayama, have my respect for sure.
As for repairs, I’ll stay strictly backyard level and be happy with that. I still want to do a good job, but willing to listen and try new approaches. I would love to spend some time in a shapers shop, watching and learning. Might just do that.
true that, hope it all goes well for you, look forward to seeing more from you on future projects!
Given your lack of experience, I guess it was smart of you to go with epoxy. Less chance of a disaster if you cannot ID what a board was made with. It would suck to have to tell a friend that you melted the finbox out of their board because you used poly on an EPS repair. Apart from the inflated cost of West epoxy, the other down side is that the stuff discolors with UV and atmospheric exposure. Goes amber/brown after a while. So a repair that might look OK when fresh will eventually look like a shit stain on a white board.
You got some experience fixing a snapped board and you got a nice looking longboard out of it. No negatives there, good stuff mate, try it out and let us know how it goes.
It’s a DT. If he got the rocker back togethr right and didn’t add too much weight; It’ll go great.
Hi fella’s
I’ve been surfing it for about 6 months or more, and it does go nice. There’s a bit of extra weight up front due to the repair - I used plenty of glass, especially on the rails, plus the cloth too. Once it breaks the lip, it drops down the face nicely and powers down the line.
The In the Pink is a performance nose rider, so I’m told. This one isn’t anymore. I’ve just purchased a 10" Takayama hatchet fin to install once the repair work is complete. That should stop me doing any turns 
Started work on it yesterday, just the onion skin dings (6 of them). Originally I wanted to router them out, then glue in foam, but I’ve used resin with micro ball filler as they 're only shallow. The first one bubbled up. Too much exothermic resin in one place. Had this happen to a fin box I installed for a mate so I wasn’t phased. Just sanded it down and filled the holes with extra filler.
Next is my first attempt at colour matching the repairs to the light blue resin tint - taking a deep breathe!
Appreciating all the comments.
Huck, looked up some old posts re resin pin lines, and found a real good demo by Fibreglass Hawaii on You Tube. Wish I had used this technique, but will next time.