In areas that are already painted, my tape is pulling some up the paint from the blank. I don’t think I’m using too much pressure as I’m also getting areas that have bled under.
Am I using the wrong tape, or it is possibly the paint.
Herb, shoot a clear water-based acrylic coat over the first coat of paint then tape on top of it. Should be free of flaws. If you are getting bleeding under the paint, then you are going too quick laying down the paint or there is too much water in your paint. I would do two dusting coats allowed to flash to almost dry then do subsequent coats heavier. We have an oven to place boards in then we can continue painting within minutes; I suppose you can use a blow dryer and get things to flash dry for you so progress can be made… Hope this helps.
You def nailed my bleed under problem: I need to be more patient laying down my coats. After the two dustings (say on a medium dark color), approx how many more coats might you do.
Depending upon the level of color saturation, it will be a judgement on your part. Some of the tougher colors are deep forest green, dark purple etc. Easy colors like yellow could only require one healthy coat following the dustings. (those dustings sort of seal the tape to the blank). Here’s a tip: spray from at least two different directions, that is, I will spray an area standing next to one rail, wait a few minutes then spray from the other rail. Why? visualize the foam as a bunch of half-cut-open micro bubbles. If you are spraying from one angle/direction, then you are only covering one inner side of the millions of bubbles. Your colors will look a lot richer and you will use much less paint to get the desired effect. Good Luck.
Jimmy Lane florida’s fastest airbrusher"35 compete in a day" showed me a trick to prevent paint bleed under,fold a piece of masking paper several times and rub down all edges of the tape well.not to much pressure so you dont dent the foam.
I’m sure there might be faster artists around,just wanted to boast on my bro.
When you are putting down tape over a painted surface make absolutly sure your paint is 100% dry. Pressure used on the tape should be steady , but firm. Use a a little better quality masking tape. If I am really worried about the tape pulling paint I will use the Blue safe release tape. If I am concerned about bleed under my tape I will use the White solvent resistant tape. I use a cup-gun and a good quality tape and rarly have any problems. Some guys apply their tape and then press the edge before spray. A tongue depressor or a popsicle stick with clean tape wrapped around one end works well. Just run it smoothly down the edge of your tape-off. I have a couple of thimbles that I use for pressing tape. McDing
Howzit McDing, when it's time to the tape just use a heat gun or hair dryer on the tape, comes off with no paint stuck to it. This tip has been in the archives for at least 3 or 4 years and I'm surprized nobody mentioned it. Aloha,Kokua
I have the answer for this one! scotch "safe release " tape is REALLY great stuff. You can tape day old enamel and it won’t pull of at all plus you can leave it on outside for 2 weeks. ----and it’s 5 bucks a roll!!! It’s blue but not the blue you see all the time --different stuff. has a orange interior. I’ll post the correct # later.
McDing - I actually was using blue 3m (2090) safe release tape. Although I did lay the tape over the painted area very early (literally right after the paint felt dry to the touch). Thanks for the tips.
Kokua - Thanks for passing the hair dryer one along. Sure enough I was just searching tips on pinlines and that is in a lot of spraying threads.
What I’m doing is a med blue bottom wrapped up around the rails and then a light blue deck. I need to touch up the wrapped area (from the tape) and I’ll let you guys know how I made out using all the tips.
Howzit Herb, I find it's better to spray the lighter color first and then the darker color. That way if any paint should lift when you pull the tape it doesn't show as much since it's usually a tiny bit that lifts.Aloha,Kokua
The tape is#2080 delicate surface tape 60 day stay on time.Keeps a fine edge too!! The best tape out there .Very different than the 2090 blue.This tape can be used on 1 day old paint and WILL NOT PULL PAINT.
Howzit liguid, Personally I don't use any of the blue tape, I use 233 some times but most of the time I use a cheaper brand that Fiberglass Hi. sells that works fine for painting. Those blue tapes are to expensive and not necessarilly what you need. I find if I vacumn the areas that will have tape, the tape sicks really good and then use the heat gun to remove the tape. I guess if you are only doing your own board it's OK to spend a lot on the tape but if you do a lot of boards it becomes cost prohibitive and air brushers don't make that much when you figure in the time it takes to mix paints and clean your equiptment. Aloha,Kokua
I agree! I just use the #2080 on fresh paint on yachts and varnish.It’s such a nightmare to do all that work then PULL PAINT UP. Makes me want to PULL HAIR OUT!!
Yeah----Those heat guns and blow dryers are handy for a lot of things. I try to not leave tape on so long that a heat gun would be necessary. I was a little leary about reccomending the use of one by someone who is just learning. Might result in some serious problems. McDing
I have a question about adjusting the HVLP detail gun that I’ve been using. I understand the side knob is for adjusting spray pattern, and the rear knob is for adjusting paint volume/trigger pull, but the knob at the bottom of the unit I’m not sure about. I kind of remember it is for adjusting air pressure but when I turn it, it doesn’t seem to have much affect on performance. If it is for air pressure, isn’t it kind of redundant as I also have a gauge/regulator going to the gun at the compressor for this adjustment?
I not sure about your sepcific modle but, pressure should be regulated at the compressor and gun as if you use a long connecting hose, as kinks and bends in the pipe can cause variation at the gun, also if several guns are be fed from one compresor a reg on the gun helps if one gun draws more psi than others, depending on the set up.
If using single gun set up and short hose, should be ok with just the one, If it’s not a pressure reg then don’t know what its used for.
Also not all compresors have a regulator or pressur gauge, when i started out I used to use a tractor inner tube with a ply board on top piled with bricks, which I’d inflate with a foot pump, as it ran out the pressure would drop and cause problems thith the gun.
Sounds like this is a seperate pressure reg on the gun it’s self, not all guns have these, sounds like you have a good gun, i think the reason it does’nt do much is beacuse you also have a good compressor with a decent regulator, so a second reg is’nt important.
can you adjust the pressure at the compressor?, basically as long as you get a constant and equal pressure from the compressor the other controls sould do the rest.
the compressor I use was made a long time ago by my farther and uses the co2 tank from an old fridge to keep a constant pressure, It still works o.k, but is noisy and I could do with a decent commpressor, just reluctant to shell out £200 - 300 on one, as only in small time production.
I have used those types of guns alot. I never really got much of an effect out of that control knob. I usually just relied on my pressure at the compressor. A good compressor with the biggest tank on it you can afford is the key to a good paint job. You don’t want to have your spray pattern dying on you while your tank runs down. If you are using a small compressor; make your applications in small mutiple passes and wait patiently on your compressor. McDing