This is the second time I have taped off a board to paint, only to have the paint bleed under the tape!! Is this due to crappy tape? I went and bought a more expensive grade tape after the first incident…but to no avail! I am not using an airbrush, but a small paint brush using light strokes. I just don’t get it. I am not much of an artist and would think simply taping off would do the trick…what am I missing??? After the second incident my board paid the price…I think I will act like the board is supposed to have a “paint thrown all over the deck look”. Has a nice green hue to it, think I will call it “The Hulk”! Hah, any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!! -Jeff-
This is the second time I have taped off a board to paint, only to have > the paint bleed under the tape!! Is this due to crappy tape? I went and > bought a more expensive grade tape after the first incident…but to no > avail! I am not using an airbrush, but a small paint brush using light > strokes. I just don’t get it. I am not much of an artist and would think > simply taping off would do the trick…what am I missing??? After the > second incident my board paid the price…I think I will act like the > board is supposed to have a “paint thrown all over the deck > look”. Has a nice green hue to it, think I will call it “The > Hulk”! Hah, any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!! -Jeff-===========Good tape is a must, but you have that. Over thinned paint is more likely to bleed also. I always sand to at least 180 grit (tape will stick better to a smoother surface). Don’t let a masked board sit around befor painting, and last but not least, blow the blank clean with compressed air befor you mask it. Good luck and don’t give up, Scott.
are u mashing/flatting down the tape with a razor blade after you put it on? I use the cheapest tape around…Tesco tape at Home Depot,and rarely does it bleed. Like Scott said fine screen your board,at least in the area that the tape goes.You can also use plain-o window screen to do this(I use 320 or 400 grit screen).Herb.
Cheap tape is not the way to go. Most cheap tapes have cheap glue that comes off when removing. I use automotive 3M masking tape. Do not use a paint brush! I have try paint brushing carefully and it bleed. A foam brush is better than a bristle brush. Air sprayer is the best method.>>> This is the second time I have taped off a board to paint, only to have > the paint bleed under the tape!! Is this due to crappy tape? I went and > bought a more expensive grade tape after the first incident…but to no > avail! I am not using an airbrush, but a small paint brush using light > strokes. I just don’t get it. I am not much of an artist and would think > simply taping off would do the trick…what am I missing??? After the > second incident my board paid the price…I think I will act like the > board is supposed to have a “paint thrown all over the deck > look”. Has a nice green hue to it, think I will call it “The > Hulk”! Hah, any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!! -Jeff- http://www.viser.net/~anthwind/
Cheap tape is not the way to go. Most cheap tapes have cheap glue that > comes off when removing. I use automotive 3M masking tape. Do not use a > paint brush! I have try paint brushing carefully and it bleed. A foam > brush is better than a bristle brush. Air sprayer is the best method. Anthony,The cheapo tape I use sticks better than the high priced stuff,and I have never had a problem with glue separation,as long as you use it for foam/painting,NOT GLASSING!..that wouldbe a problem!Herb.
Herb is correct Glassing has been my biggest problem with cheap tape. The cheap glue tape has stuck to the stringers when painting. That is why I use the better stuff. To save money I any time I tape over the edge tape I use the cheap stuff. Anthony>>> Anthony,The cheapo tape I use sticks better than the high priced stuff,and > I have never had a problem with glue separation,as long as you use it for > foam/painting,NOT GLASSING!..that wouldbe a problem!Herb. http://www.viser.net/~anthwind/
Herb is correct>>> Glassing has been my biggest problem with cheap tape. The cheap glue tape > has stuck to the stringers when painting. That is why I use the better > stuff. To save money I any time I tape over the edge tape I use the cheap > stuff.>>> Anthony …ya i’ll go with you there on the stringers.I USE GOOD QUALITY 3M TAPE IN 1/8",1/4",1/2" ETC. for stringer use,or if i’m taping over allready painted foam surfaces.Herb.
Anyway you look at it …bleeding under the tape sucks.Herb.
Anyway you look at it …bleeding under the tape sucks.Herb. Sure does suck…anyway, thanks for all the help!
Jeff, you can re-screen your blank and start over,with very little effort or damage to your shape …GOOD LUCK BRA!Herb.
You guys might try some of 3Ms automotive “fine line” tape. It’s designed specifically for creating fine paint lines. Sort of a plastic, instead of paper like masking tape. Don’t know how well it would work on a porous surface such as foam, but it should afford better results than regular masking tape on any surface. It prevents paint bleed in automotive paint applications, which the best 3M masking tape won’t do.
You guys might try some of 3Ms automotive “fine line” tape. It’s > designed specifically for creating fine paint lines. Sort of a plastic, > instead of paper like masking tape. Don’t know how well it would work on a > porous surface such as foam, but it should afford better results than > regular masking tape on any surface. It prevents paint bleed in automotive > paint applications, which the best 3M masking tape won’t do. …is that the stretchy stuff that’s color coded?Herb.
The problem here is your working with “water base paint” it dries way slower and somtimes puddles as opposed to solvent based. Don’t confuse with tape applied to a metal or sanded resin surface. Different tapes for different specific applications, and 233 Autobody quality is for foam unless your willing to take the bleeding nightmare after hours of shaping and hours of the tapeing fiasco. Experiment on scraps.
If you look at my examples on the board page you will see that I got my stuff in order…Herb.
If you look at my examples on the board page you will see that I got my > stuff in order…Herb. Yes i know, I like your boards alot.
This stuff isn’t stretchy, it’s olive drab in color. I think I still have some of it in one of the cupboards in the garage. If I can find it, next time you’re in the area I’ll give you a roll of it to try. It comes in different widths as well, from 1/8" to about 1". Aloha, OL
Yes i know, I like your boards alot…Thanks that means alot to me!Herb.
This stuff isn’t stretchy, it’s olive drab in color. I think I still have > some of it in one of the cupboards in the garage. If I can find it, next > time you’re in the area I’ll give you a roll of it to try. It comes in > different widths as well, from 1/8" to about 1". Aloha, OL …What the heck I love to play!!!SEE YOU THEN.Herb.
Is that the stuff that is sometimes called “helicopter tape?” It’s a military type tape that was designed to repair the outside of helicopters and hold on in 150+ MPH wind. More of a strechy cellophane type of tape than a crepe masking tape. Good for sharp lines when doing resin color over sanded hot coat before glossing.
With duct tape being called 100 MPH tape, I suppose this stuff could be called helicopter tape, but not to my knowledge. This stuff is slightly stretchy to afford making curved lines in auto paint applications. (such as flame work) I doubt that it would stay on at 150 MPH, but I know it will stay on using 60PSI at a spray gun. I found 6 rolls in my garage, I’ll pass 3 of them on to Herb. 1/8", 1/4" and 3/4". I’m sure Herb will post any positive advantages discovered using this tape over regular masking tape.>>> Is that the stuff that is sometimes called “helicopter tape?” > It’s a military type tape that was designed to repair the outside of > helicopters and hold on in 150+ MPH wind. More of a strechy cellophane > type of tape than a crepe masking tape. Good for sharp lines when doing > resin color over sanded hot coat before glossing.