Taping a Cutlap

Due to the weather, I didn’t go ahead with the glassing of my board this weekend…But I did try to tape the deck up for my cutlap. I went out and bought, what I thought, was the “good stuff”, the 3M Blue Painters Tape. I don’t have an air compressor to blow my blank off, but I dusted it off REALLY good. My questions are:

1.) The tape would just NOT stick. I would layt it down, then go over it with my palm to “push” it down, and by the time I was a foot farther, it was pulling up…Did I buy the wrong stuff?

2.) This first board I’m glasssing is shaped from an old longboard I stripped…Could the softer foam play a part in the non-sticky-ness?

3.) How in Gods name do you get the tap to “bend” to conform to the rail line(s)? Do you cut relief cuts in it or what? This stuff doesn’t seem to want to bend at ALL…

Once again, thanks for all your help.

-Scott

A compressor would help you alot with the tape sticking. The foam must be dust free or you will have the problems you having and im fairly sure its not the foam. Your last question i cant really help you with since i havent done cutlaps or used the blue tape BUT ive done a fair amount of airbrushing and once the tape sticks you will find it will be easier to get the tape to follow a curve.

go to pep boys or the likes and get automotive masking tape

the green 3m is quite good

The 3m blue painter’s tape sucks, it didn’t even stick when I was using it for painting. Clean walls, etc. and it still let drips behind it.

Just my experience.

I use the 3m 220 series, its available at home depot, the tape tends to break down or something over a few days so its best to tape and work shortly after, ive seen my airbrusher use the 220 and go away for the weekend and when he got back the tape was peeling in spots.

Hey tenover, If you don’t have a compressor, get some of that compressed air in a can from a computer store. It’s clean and works pretty well. To get the tape to comform to the curve of the rail, use several runs of slightly overlapping 3/4" instead of the wide stuff. That way you won’t get all of those folds - it’ll lay down nice and flat. The 3m 220 is good…

Hope this helps,

Gene

also to avoid using so much tape we cover most of the deck with butcher paper. 40lb tolerance so its nice and thick. watch out for airbrushed decks though cause resin that saturates the paper will take away some paint on the deck. Austin S

Hey Tenover

I’m a laborer, work for contractors.

NEVER use blue tape for taping off anything that has to do with surfboards. It’s made for easy tear off, without leaving gummy residue, the opposite of what you want.

Use the tan colored stuff, the thicker (not wider) the better. I exclusively used 1/2 inch, and you can get almost any surfboard curve with it.

With better tape, blowing is not needed. But you still need to brush the dust off with either a black, foot long hand sweep broom or a 6" tan bristle brush. Then get some dust into your lungs by blowing it from your lungs.

Cool- Thanks for the replies…It must be the tape I bought, because I’ve REALLY dusted the foam off good. Regarding the butcher paper, I’m all over that…Getting the tape line down is the only thing holding me back now, that really sucks, seeing as it should be easy to lay it down. Gotta go get some good tape now.

If You dont have a compressor, try using Your vacuum cleaner with the nozzle that has a brush or bristles on it.

Worked fine for me, go over what You want to clean several times and also clean the bristles on the nozzle inbetween

Good luck

Howzit tenover, EricG has it right, I use my shop vac with a home vac brush attachment( the kind with soft bristles) and your tape will stay stuck to the blank. Get 3M 233 tape since it 's the best.Aloha, Kokua

Another aspect of bending tape, other than using the 1/2" stuff, is to stretch it as you lay it down. You may have to gently press down on the tape that is already in place as you pull and bend, sliding along as you go. It’s almost like a surfing movement: concentrating and cross-stepping as you work your way down the board. And don’t hesitate to pull up a section to reset the tape if you see a wobble. A clean board will allow a few “re-sticks”.

After the half inch tape is down, then you can tape over it with 1 1/2" or 2", leaving the “good” edge of the 1/2" exposed. Doug

Quote:

also to avoid using so much tape we cover most of the deck with butcher paper. 40lb tolerance so its nice and thick. watch out for airbrushed decks though cause resin that saturates the paper will take away some paint on the deck. Austin S

Use heavy duty painters plastic instead, like the 3 or 5 mil stuff. resin wont melt it and you dont have to worry about your colors getting screwed up. Butcher paper is for airbrush.

Isn’t wax paper, from Mom’s kitchen, more handy, cheaper, and will not ever stick?

Let’s see- a few things;

Foam ain’t that great a material to stick things to. Lots of little holes, not a lot of actual surface, and dust will happily get into all the nooks and crannies and you got tape stuck to dust. Dust is your enemy. Vac it with a brush that’s stiff enough to get it loose and you’re getting it as good as ya reasonably can.

While the 3M blue sticks to stuff like a glossed board really well, the glue isn’t so great for porous surfaces like foam. The tradeoff is that the 3M glue doesnt dry out as quick so ya can leave it there for a while and the junk-brand tape has a pretty aggressive glue that’ll stick better but it dries out and gets to be a permanent problem. One word of warning: some of the cheap tapes have a glue /adhesive that leaves a residue when something containing styrenes is used with it and soaks in some. It’s soluble in acetone, that residue, but it’s a pain to have to deal with.

Could be the soft foam has bigger ‘pores’ so ya got less to stick to, but I don’t think that matters a whole lot.

As for curves: while guys like pro-pinstripers use some real narrow tape and stick it down flat, something to remember is you don’t necessarily have to. If your good side is reasonably flat and the other is wrinkly and folded over itself, so what? As long as the edge you’re going to be cutting to is on the right curve and not horribly lumpy, let it go, you just want something to cut to and keep the cloth from sticking to what’s under the tape. What I’ll usually do is run the tape along, pushing one edge down to the line, the other side is wherever it is, then lightly come along and push down the tape so it isn’t flapping, but as to whether it’s perfectly flat I could care less. Kinda like this:

I’ve got one nice flat edge that’s on the curve, great - so any glass that’s to that edge will lay flat on what’s under it, foam or previous lamination, and when I cut to that edge it’ll be fine. If the rest of the tape is up a little, folded and so on , it doesn’t matter, I’m gonna cut it loose and chuck it anyhow.

I tend to go along, tape roll in one hand and my other hand guiding and pressing down just one side of the tape and pushing it down right to the line - I don’t worry about sticking all of it down across the width. The rest of the tape is up away from the surface, perhaps, like you’d do tape along the rails for a hotcoat or gloss. I can always come along later and crudely push it down if I feel like it. It’s a Good Idea, by the way, if your cloth is not too oversized for the laps, so it ends up about midway on the tape someplace. You can get away with some very wide tape, used this way - as I found out when I had some midnight repairs to do and all I had on hand was 2" masking tape.

hope that’s of use

doc…

I agree with Kokua, 3m 233 is the best. Solvent/heat resistant and compared to others leaves the least amount of adhesive on the board when you pull it. 3/4"or 1/2" for the bends. Find it at an auto painter’s supply shop.

3M 233 is the best that I have found but for general purpose I use 3M 2600 it is like half the price of 3M 233. The only place I don’t skimp is on my 1/4 inch tape. Nothing beats 1/4 for airbrush curves! The butcher block paper is nice because it comes in 24" width and on a 600 yd roll. It works like a charm if you use the 30 dollar cutter (one time purchase) and you can rip it off in any length you want. Great for quick templates, airbrushing, floor mats, and even cut laps Purchased this because Mom yelled at me for using her wax paper!

this may be a repeat of what several other people have said. I learned how to lay tape on a curve from a auto body repair friend of mine. He told me not to worry about getting all of the tape flat on the surface. Lets say that you are working with 3/4" tape, all you have to do is get a 1/4’ or so of the tape on the surface and let the rest of it’s width hang as it may. Pulling and stretching the tape allows you to make the curves. Hold the tape roll in one hand and guide the tape to the line as you press the tape down with the other hand.

Quote:

I agree with Kokua, 3m 233 is the best. Solvent/heat resistant and compared to others leaves the least amount of adhesive on the board when you pull it. 3/4"or 1/2" for the bends. Find it at an auto painter’s supply shop.

I’m assuming that the tape I use is “3M 233” since it is 3M and stamped on the inner core of the roll is the designation “233 3-206 PN 06334” – but I’m not certain. It does leave more gummy adhesive residue than I’d like–and I’m pretty certain that in the more distant past, I’ve used a (3M) tape that left less (virtually no) residual. Do I have the wrong tape? …is there anything better? (or is my memory faulty, or my technique failing, or has 3M discontinued a previous type that was even better?)…

Thanks.

MTB