I’ve checked the archives and so far so great. Got a very nice even solid color deck with the color wraping the rails. I added elmers to the paint and it seems to have stablized the paint to the foam.
Does anyone have any further tips during lamination to keep the paint intact? I’m going to do a standard bottom lam first with free laps, but I’m worried that the paint will scratch on the glassing stands. Should I sweet coat the areas on the deck that will touch the stands or do you pros do a reverse lamination (deck first)?
I do tempra a lot. It is my preferred color method on EPS. I usually just do color on the deck and them reverse lam. If you are careful, I bet you could get rid of the tape on the glass stands, use say, soft cloth and then glass normally without damage.
Tempra works well for me. Doesn’t fade, cheap, easy to use. Lots of colors.
If you have licked the issue of bleeding under the tape, you are 95% there.
Haven’t tried Futures in the tempra but after Herb’s suggestion, I will.
I did the spray job on a poly blank. I had issues with the tape sticking so I gave the tape line a light spray with 3m adhesive. It seemed to be the way to go, no bleeding at all. I like the tempera paint it covers well and is cheap. Glad to hear that it doesn’t fade. I’ve had acrylic airbrush paint fade badly on deck sprays put on the sanding coat.
I got some tips from a pro on how to deal with the paint for a trouble free lamination. His tip was before you pull the tape and paper sweet coat the entire spray area. The paper and tape line keep the non sprayed areas clean and the sweet coat keeps the paint intact. Unfortunately I already pulled the tape, so I’m going to do a test spot on the tape line and see how well I can brush it on without bleeding. If it goes on o.k. then I’ll finish off the whole deck.
Does anyone have any further tips during lamination to keep the paint intact? I’m going to do a standard bottom lam first with free laps, but I’m worried that the paint will scratch on the glassing stands.
The trick (thanks Bammbamm808!) that works is: cut small pieces of carpet padding, place onto each glassing rack tape off. Grips the foam well enough for a bottom lam but doesn’t mess/stick to the paint.
Howzit Bud, Another trick is but some of that foam for around air conditioners that is almost square and cut the length to fit on your reverse tape on the racks. It holds the blank relly good also and you can reuse it many times.Aloha,Kokua
There is too much paint to do a reverse lam. I did a test spot and flecks of paint came off. Ended up doing a sweet coat on the rails and the spots that the racks will hit on the deck. Then I’m going to do the bottom first.
I think that I won’t freshen up the tape on the rack just in case it might stick to the deck and pull the paint.
A quick spray of acrylic over the paint does the trick. Best to spray your acrylic paint on. When you’re done, clean your gun. By the time it’s clean, if the room is warm and dry, you’re paint will be dry. Then put some diluted acrylic in your gun and spray it once, let dry, then once again. Keeps the paint on the blank, not on the tape.
I’m big with the spraying thing. I was going to sweet coat the deck and rails, but once I saw how much resin I would have to use I stopped at the rails and contact spots on the deck. Also the brushing action just spreads the paint specks all over. The sprayer with acrylic clear sounds quick, even, and clean. Going to have to try that one next time.
Howzit DMP, Herb has it dead on about using future or thinned out Elmer’s white glue. I have used the Elmer’s trick more than a few times and find it works just fine.Aloha,Kokua
The acrylic binder in Future is more than enough to keep the paint in place. Future turns the paint into a slightly rubberized finish. It’s almost like house paint when dry, really flexible, but not tacky.
Also don’t use a future / paint mix if you are spraying directly on to a sanded glassed finish. I’ve done this a few time thinking i was being tricky and had the entire spray job peal like a bad sunburn. Future on an open foam job won’t scratch very easily, and the tape won’t peal it up very easily (shoot clear future over the each phase of the paint job for tape peal resistance)
Also since i am so verbose this morning…thank you very much. I like to use some of that memory foam attached to my racks for a soft touch. There no way that stuff will scratch, and it really sticky to clean foam.
I need to get some of the Future stuff. The sweet coat worked great, but uses way too much resin. Also to brush it on can cause problems in its self. I added elmers to my paint mix but because it was more red then orange I had to do three coats to keep it looking redish orange instead of pinkish orange. The paint flecks became rather large from all the coats. Brushing just spreads then around. A quick even spray would have been much easier with the acrylic.
Somehow I got a scratch on the deck and had to do a touch up spray, so I have a darker spot then the rest of the deck. I couldn’t see it after I did the touch up spray, but it shows now that it’s laminated. Man I hate color work on other people’s boards! The epoxy just makes it that much more difficult.
Also thanks for the tip about the tempera on the sanded glass. I’ll stick with the acrylic paint for that.
Howzit DMP, I should have some F.H.acrylic around the house, I am in Princeville and can give you enough for what you need. Let me look and I will get back to you. Just checked and I have about a pint of F.H.waterbased acrylic thinner and you are welcome to it. I will be around my house all day ( except for a foodland run) so call me, 826-4555 today and come and get it. The reason you should get it today is tomorrow I will not be around.Also I am not sure when the hospital may call and tell me to come over for operation. I am going to call them tomorrow and see if they have a new date for the operation. Aloha,Kokua
How do you mix it??? ratios???.. resin???..epoxy or poly???
How do you apply it?..
Why do you guys assume that everyone knows what “Sweet Coat” is??? Kind of like “basting”???
What size brush…what air temp…poly or epoxy…Paint???
When do you use Sweet Coat? When is it not needed?
Thank you
Stingray
I found the term during a search in the archive when I was looking for information about glassing, http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=112291;search_string=sweet%20coat;#112291. It goes into detail about the tricks and techniques during glassing. Steve Lis explained to me that a sweet coat is a thin layer of resin used for whatever you can imagine a thin layer of resin will do. In my case it is/was a technique to protect a color coat on the foam. From past problems I learned the hard way that red can be a nightmare especially with epoxy. I’ve also heard that by sealing the color on the foam with resin you can prevent crystalization especially with dark colors like black.
As far as your other questions I don’t know enough about color work to give you an accurate answer. I’m attempting color on polyurethane blanks with Resin Research resin, so it’s all epoxy for me.