After I cut out my blank from the template, I’ve been using my long sanding block to true the sides up with good results. But, would using my planer be more efficiant, and the better tool overall for this?
Thanks,
Herb B.
Yes
Yup
Make your first few cuts on zero this will true you curve. Then adjust your cutting depth from there.
Well thats how I do it anyway
keep well
Planer at 90 degrees def works, but main thing is, you need an eye for smooth curves and blending radius arcs, matching and melding the convergence.
Smooth arching templates are not a mechanical exercise, but a blend of experience, mechanical, and the eye of a craftsman.
I’ll second what Lee said. When it comes to templates, it really doesn’t matter what tools you use, some are faster than others, but in the end it is the same result. With that aside, I find that a medium block plane is a wonderful tool for said application. -Carl
I’ll third that, I use a block plane and then sanding block with 100grit. btw what do you guys use for template material, I have recently been having good results with 3mm mdf?
yeah me too. mini block plane, helps bring any high points down to an average low… but keep using your eye, then 40 gt paper just cupped in my hand to smooth that curve out nicely- i like to shut my eyes sometimes here and feel for inconsistancies. cupping the sandpaper gives my templates a “bullnose” radius on the edge, i like the feel of this- but i understand people who think it offers too much scope for the pencil to waver. its just ( one of my many) silly little ways i do things.
oh markyv 3mm custom is great. stable, flexible and long lasting- a shaper at an old factory of mine used something called ‘mylar’ (spelling?) i think used in sailmaking?? but at about 0.5mm thick ,was a tad flimsy for me. (probably expensive too!)
Well I gave my planer a try at truing the sides of my cut out blank and I am sold… Fast, easy, and very precise…
Thanks,
Herb Bean
I am sure your already doing this, but no matter what you use, I always finish by turning the blank on edge so it is on rail in the stand. I then get right down to the rail so my eye is about an inch or two from the rail edge. I start at the nose and keeping my eye the same distance from the rail I then walk to the center of the board. This really lets you see if there are any highs or lows on in the outline profile.
BTW the way I cut the outline with a jigsaw and am damn god at it. I need only do very minor truing of the outline. I say this not to be cocky but the more you can correct in one step, the less you have to correct in another.
And, I suppose i should have said this prior to the second paragraph, but really take the time to lay down your outline on the blank to get it as close as possible to the final outline. I repeat, the more correct you are at this stage will then determine how much correcting you need to do in the next steps.
Drew
Andrew Kidman’s film “Glass Love” has some footage of Pat Curren with a small hand plane fine tuning a template pattern he cut for his son Joe’s board . Just to clarify, are we talking about the template as the pattern used to trace the outline or the outline of the cut blank or can it be used interchangeably? Not sure which the original poster meant. Tuning a flimsy piece of masonite might get tricky with a power plane.
Just received a paper transfer trace of a Phil Edwards bd. from John Mellor (thanks again John). Ripped 4x8 sheet of 1/8" temp. masonite into four 12" x 8’ strips (The lumber or Home place can rip it there for you). Used masking tape to carefully tape the brown paper cut-out tracing onto the masonite with the center line (stringer line) running down the length of the 12"w masonite edge. Used a pencil to put a few random dots on the masonite along the outline shape for reference. Ran a piece of masking tape along and over the dots from one end to the other. Now I have a nice clean cream color surface on which to trace the outline shape with ball-point pen (crisp line unlike pencil that dulls), and tape also helps avoid rough tear-out of the masonite when I saw along the line trying to just barely leave the pen line.
I like using the band saw with an outfeed table, but scroll saw, jig saw with fine blade works to saw and just ever so slightly leave the line. By leaving the line I have a reference to final sand and clean the edge to. I put the sawn masonite template on edge in the vice and carefully run an 18" long wood sanding block with 80 grit paper glued to it down the edge with emphasis on keeping the block perfectly flat (no roundover) and just use the weight of the block (no pressure) to glide down the edge to remove any slight bumps. With a razor sharp block plane and micro deep cut, I follow and use sight and feel as previously mentioned in other posts, and finally very lightly sand the edge, and top and bottom surfaces with 150 gt on a small flat block along the edge line.
I like spending the extra time to get a “right-on” template cuz it makes life that much easier when it’s time to trace onto the blank and do the real work. I use the 8’ masonite to do the tail and body area of the template, cut it to 6’ long (easier to handle than a flimsy 8’ strip), and use half of another 8’ strip for the nose area template. Use the two nose and tail temps to blend and tweek for shorter or longer boards than the traced original. Enjoy the ride.
Richard McCormick
John,
All was in regards to outline of my cut blank. I did a couple of edits on my former posts to help clarify.
Best,
Herb Bean