Hi, My name is Eddie and I’m originally from Hawaii.I’m now living in Japan and also looking into shaping surfboards. At this time I’m riding for a company is Japan and my sponsor is shaping my boards with old small wave templates.I’ve been searching for templates myself.I’ll give you some advice.You should try to make a template on your own.I think if you can’t build a template then how can you shape.Plus when Icame to Japan I brought 3 Wade Tokoro surfboards with me that demolished the waves back home.But when I surfed the same boards in Japan they didn’t work well at all.The tails on my board were very narrow and had to much rocker.The point is you dont need another persons template.You can design it yourself.The easiest way to start is to make a half template.Quarter templates suck.Plus you can judge your rail line alot easier.Anyway take your thin template wood use one side of your board as the half of your surfboard.Then measure the length of your surfboard to be.I don’t know how much you know about surfboards but I’ll give you some more advice.when you make you template think about what kind of waves you’ll be ridingbecause it’s very important when shaping a template.Look at some of your local breaks surfers boards.Find out the nose width,centers width and tail width.Researching your local surfers dimensions is the best way to get started with your template.I’ve made 2 templates and gave them to my sponsor as presents and I tell you what.Both templates I made into boards and both boards killed.This year I’ve finaled almost all my contests.Making a template is really easy it’s the dimensions that count.After that it your rocker,rails,and your fin placement that’s going to make your template come alive.If you really need help making a template then E-mail me back and I’ll send you to a site that will help you step by step.

thanks eddie of hawaii/japan i understand the concept of making a template but i can’t get that perfect curve i always seem to acquire a small dip somewhere in my line. it is probably something very elementary that i am overlooking maybe that website you mentioned could help me. just a rookie but willing to put in the time and effort to figure it out. i think i need to cut it a bit outside the line then file it down ? don’t worry i am only shaping boards for people i know who are just starting out and need an inexpensive first board. i am not trying to compete at a higher level yet. need a few more years experience before i test the market. i appreciate your input.

quarter templates suck?? Maybe im the only one but they are my favorite. Im not confined to one full template that way i can mix and match. I have allot more fun making boards with quaret templates takes a lil more time but you have more options. Mid section or this boars nose of that tail of anouther… then testing it is the best part of all. but if you got a board yo really like and wanna duplicate half template is that way to go. Just thought id share… good luck makin your boards

daniel, with practice i’m sure you could draw some fine templates. there are simple tools to help get a smooth, continuous curve. try checking the archives for fishing poles or something along those lines. another trick is to use a full length mirror to look at the reflected image of your template. looking at the reverse image, you may see bumps and problem areas that you didn’t notice at first glance. If you’re intent on buying a pre-made template, click on the link at the end of this message. good luck! http://www.transmediapublishing.com/site/pages/otherproducts.html

Get a computer program, draw a french curve, click and start pulling the handles…

Here are some suggestions about outlining that might help. To start, I’ve always thought that wide point kind of finds its own place. I know this is contrary to the way others think but when your blending curves they just fit together certain ways and forcing a point just makes a bump. When I’m doing new designs there are a couple techniques I use to get the curves I want. To begin with when I have a new design in mind I GENERALLY know what I’m looking for. But exact numbers don’t mean that much. When I draw up the outline I usually draw a line parallel to the stringer covering about 6 inches on either side of the my “wide point.” This gives me a line to blend into without having to hit a “point.” I can now blend in a nose template and then a tail template into that line. After I’ve drawn the template with a pencil, and I’m pretty sure I have close to what I want, I darken the pencil line with a magic marker or a sharpie. Now I can stand it up and really see the outline and see if that’s what I had pictured in my mind. If not I then draw new lines and darken them, and use 1/4" masking tape to hide the older lines. Using this technique has made it much easier to get the lines I want in any design.

I do it the same way as Greg.Get the widepoint marks along with the tail and nose dimensions.I have several different curves that I use to blend in what I want.When making a template I use door skin for the material…most of them are 1/4 “spin” templates unless its a board less than 6 feet.I trace my curves on the template material and clean it up with the planer to get the flats out.I am going for a smooth curve and not paying attention to “numbers” .The key is the marks you put on the blank.When I get a design that I intend to use a lot I trace it off of the blank right after I have cut it.I have over twenty templates so if you are in the Southeast USA area you are welcome to come by and trace all you want…You buy lunch. R. Brucker

Exactly as Greg says, forcing an outline, can work against you. I use my Pleskunas shapers square, draw a set of parallel lines near center, with a mark for center, then see how it all fits. I’ve set up measurements, only to find they are not what I thought they should have been, with the wide point falling ahead or behind of where I ASSUMED it should be. I see all too many shapers stuck on numbers when flexibility can be working in your favor to create a much more pleasing look.

Greg, I like your thinking. That’s mostly how I program outlines. Like all other board lines, outlines should be modified elipse sections. This means nose and tail sections tend from circular ends to straight parallel lines. I’ve seen a few boards whose nose and tail lines meet in diverging or converging straight rails. Boards made that way tend not to glide or project well. The wide point should have the straightest rails.

…when all else fails I go to my 4’ into a 15’ telescoping stick pole,it kicks ass,brother.Herb

that helps me a little bit but i still think dope helps the template process as well

Eddie I was wondering if you could send me the URL to that page with template information. I would greatly appreciate it. My email is Thanks Brett

If u need templates maybe I can help u. http://www.theglasser.com

Sorry that page is under consruption at moment send me e-mail if neeed more information http://www.theglasser.com

Dan u have e-mail problem… I try to send e mail…but come back http://www.theglasser.com

Need informations… see here http://www.theglasser.com/homefilez/template/index.htm test… http://www.theglasser.com

Howzit, Brett Sorry Iv’e been surfing all weekend.I been tring to find that sight for the past hour and a half because I forgot to write the E-mail address down.All I can remember is that the E-mail was in the UK and the web pages back rounds were all red and he explain how to shape and glass,pretty much everything. As far as my advice on 1/2 templates maybe I shouldn’t give narrow minded advice. I guess when shaping you should keep and open mind.I think everyone has their little knich.I’m just a rider who would like to be a shaper.The first time I replied to this sight was the first time I turned on my internet and the first time I’ve replied to anything.Anyway this sight is pretty cool and if I get any really good information I’ll be sure to let everyone know. Peace