Without trying to sound too much like a brown noser, I just wanted to say thanks to all the Oahu sufers. You guys are blessed with the best surf in the world, but are not afraid to share the wealth. It never ceases to amaze me how mellow tempered the surf crowd is as long as you mind your manners and show respect to the local culture. I surfed amazing dawn patrol Rocky Pt, Gas Chambers, Hulton’s, and Lannies last week before the nasty storm hit Saturday. Saturday drove out west to some really fun Makaha, and 3rd dip. Sunday it was back to Makaha, and Surfers Paradise. San Diego could learn a lot from Oahu.
How’d that new board you built in a day for the trip work out here?
looked a little big and gunny at 7’9" but then I don’t know how big you are…
I think minding your P’s and Q’s anyway should open some doors at any break but I could be wrong.
PPK (PeterPopeKahapea) has a funny story about this on the skurfermag forum
But in general it always a pleasure to “share” waves with any new face in our local breaks here with maybe the exception of pipe where the life threatening consequences make the line up way more amped…
Howzit oneula, I’ll have to check that story by Peter since he is a very good friend of mine. He’s one of the announcerrs at some of the contests I work and I keep his boards repaired for him. Aloha,Kokua
The board worked great I’m 6’3" and about 210 lb right now. The way it worked out I could have used a smaller board on a few days, and I could have used a way bigger board on the other days. But over all it’s a good sized board. It’s 20 3/8 wide, hind sight it should have been about 19 3/4 for the Rocky’s right’s. For the spots like Laniakea, Houlton’s and Jocko’s it was perfect. I did the lot’s of rocker and set the fins straight thing, and it seemed to work pretty good. Now I have to see how it goes in my Cold, Winter, Green murky waves
I’ve got a few friends in the Country that have been living there since about 84. And a few friends in Town since 91 or so, I’ve been making the bi yearly pligramage since about 86. My buddy has an office and fabricating shop at the Sugar Mill for a construction co. I’m pretty dialed in on the what’s happening daily because he constantly calls me to rub my nose in it, one of our San Diego friends (Jeff Alexander) works in the same building airbrushing as Chapman. I have never surfed big pipe 8ft plus, and I never will at this point in my life.
Like I said before, Hawaii is a pretty friendly place. Just use respect…Laymans terms>>>>Never drop in on anybody…Always smile and say hello. If big grumpy guy with tat’s comes out into line up and hes going right>>>>>Stay to the left of him, and let him go right.
Laniakea was Tuesday afternoon from about 4:30 to dark, and Thursday at from about 6:45-9:00 am. Kind of hard to remember, yeah right! totally doing the little kid thing. We surfed 3 times a day for 6 days straight, spagetti arms, underarm rash, sore ribs, stiff neck…laughing at your friend going over the falls,…priceless.
I was out at bopping around between Lani’s and Holtons at that time… I was trying out a new board then switched to my 12 foot board with a Canoe Paddle… I was the guy kneeling down paddling and Mike Fox was the guy with the red Stand Up board. That day I was winding down from Tuesday which was just A-grade 6’ Laniakea in the morning… Wish I woulda known you were out… We coulda did breakfast or something after…
DITTO!!! I just got back from 10 days (5 on Hawaii and 5 on Oahu) that were GREAT! Good Aloha from everyone, including Manoa (Hi Jon!). I surfed once just So. of Kona the first week (by the beach on Alii where the turtles go?) then last week Queens, Canoes, Pops, Kaisers, Lanies. Lanies (sp?) was GREAT! Just before the expected big swell (hope you guys got it) on Sat.
Nothing but great waves and aloha spirit! I asked one local at Lanies if the waves were always like this, good shape 6-7’ (face) and all he said was “well…sometimes thier bigger!” Ha! That’s GREAT! Can’t wait to get back.
yup…awesome to meet other swaylockers! Aloha to you and your wife! Congrats to your daughter for completing a grueling Iron Man in Kona. Hopefully, next time we can surf together…maybe try my noseriders! Keep in touch!
I saw you, the guy on the red board was wearing a white rash guard, big Haloe guy? That was a pretty fun surf. I was surfing with my buddy John, Bald guy looks like Uncle Fester 40 ish, black rash guard, Big Yellow T&C LB, goofy foot. Yeah I got drilled a few times at Houlton’s on Tuesday afternoon it was still pretty solid, there were a few sneaker sets that caught me off guard, good test to see how solid my glass job was…total death grip.
I’ll be back in April for Easter, I’ll be with my family so it will be a more mello trip. I’ll drop you a line next time and we can hook up.
I saw you, the guy on the red board was wearing a white rash guard, big Haloe guy? That was a pretty fun surf. I was surfing with my buddy John, Bald guy looks like Uncle Fester 40 ish, black rash guard, Big Yellow T&C LB, goofy foot. Yeah I got drilled a few times at Houlton’s on Tuesday afternoon it was still pretty solid, there were a few sneaker sets that caught me off guard, good test to see how solid my glass job was…total death grip.
I’ll be back in April for Easter, I’ll be with my family so it will be a more mello trip. I’ll drop you a line next time and we can hook up.
-Jay
Yeah, the big haole guy with the red board was Mike Fox who lives right there on the beach. I was the other guy with a canoe paddle. Today it was almost the same as it was that day, maybe a hair bigger… It finally cleaned up for us again… Drop me a line next time and I’ll buy you breakfast after we surf…
BTW, I think its very cool of you to say thanks. Its all to common to get takers coming over to surf here and all they are interested in are themselves and how many waves can they grab. I am in the water almost everyday on the North Shore and can tell you there are PLENTY visiting A-Holes that end up getting humble pie from us…
I can say from the heart you are very welcome and that’s coming from someone born and raised in Hawaii and grew up on the North Shore. Its my home and it always has been. Thanks to YOU for the kind words and may all your visits be wave filled and fun…