What has surfing provided that you are grateful for?
Roger
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What has surfing provided that you are grateful for?Roger
Basically, good health and good friends. It sometimes seems like a community of people who you only get to see when you go somewhere and surf. Sometimes you have never met this friend before, sometimes they are old buddies.
One of the most interesting things that has developed for me, and I know most other’s, is learning about the earths weather systems and the dynamics of how it all works together, globally. The internet has opened up all kinds of doors for me in this arena.
Happy Thanksgiving!!
Other than the sheer fun of it all and the knowledge you gain from the situations the ocean throws at you… My most cherished things to be grateful for are the life long, stoked, friends its led me to… I’m now heading off to go get grateful for the waves I’m about to get…Happy Thanksgiving!
That no matter how bad or good life gets…
-somewhere in the world someone is getting the ride of their life.
-there will always be another wave on the norizon somewhere
-and as long as I’m alive and able, I can make a difference in this world no matter how small the contribution.
mahalo many friends of sways
Quote:
What has surfing provided that you are grateful for?
Roger
After thinking about it, surfing provided a yardstick to measure who I really am in the natural world. The challenge of pitting oneself against one of the raw forces of nature, reveals to you, in a fundamental way, the stuff you are made of.
The process gave me a comfort and confidance about myself, knowing that I’ve met challenges that most people in the ‘‘real world’’, outside of surfing, cannot even fathom. I’m sure a great many of you, upon reflection, will find that surfing was/is a defining element of your character. You end up seeing the world, and yourself, differently than others. I’m grateful for the opportunity to have made friends of extrordinary quality. It has been a long, and yet swift journey.
the oppertunity to commune
with the boundrylayer
between this earths
two atmospheres
has provided me
synchronicity.
the ability to percieve
the right place and right time .
and to recognise when I
am there.
with this info …
I can sense when to stop
fussing and just …
be there.
an’ the aw shux
feeling that
I/we are the fortunate
benificiaries of millions upon billions
of popsitivly divine coincidences
that result in the beatific smile
we share with the mona lisa
on a good day.
…ambrose…
she did have bad days
(sometimes) an escape from the madness on land
Yesterday, Thanksgiving Day, a neighbor pops over who has been cleaning the attic. He handsover a book. “Surfboard Design and Construction” by James Knistle. !!! Whoa, I’m stoked!!! I don’t know if there was more than one edition but it’s from 1795 and there is no mention of 1st printing, 2nd editon, etc. or anything on the title page.
In the morning I had nice little session before firing up the kitchen. And this mornig before work I met with a couple of friends I surfed with way back when we were kids.
Three separate gifts from surfing in 24 hours. I am truly thankfull.
I’d have to say, living as I do right smack dab in the middle of Los Angeles County (one of the biggest urban areas in the world), surfing has given me contact with nature.
This morning the dolphins, seals and pelicans were out in force, and probably lots of the underwater critters that attracted them there. Eye contact with dolphins is always a rush.
Thanks.
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I don’t know if there was more than one edition but it’s from 1795 and there is no mention of 1st printing, 2nd editon, etc. or anything on the title page.
I’m stoked for you man. But if that book is really from the 1700’s you should get it checked for authenticity and insured.
Just Joking around.
Happy thanksgiving to all of you Americans out there and to all who are thankful everyday of the year…
I’m most thankful MAKING a critical late drop.
just spit up on the keyboard, good one! Ahhhh 1975…
Travel itch.