I was watching the a surfing movie last night and i was reminded of an old board i once had. It was a mid 70’s triple stringer single fin, about 7 foot long shaped by Greg Sauritch. I sold the board a few years ago and have come to regret it.
There have been a few special boards in my life, boards that have changed everything for me, whether its been a brief whirlwind affair with a 62 Jacobs or the long marriage i’ve had with my thruster. You may have had one of these boards or ten but I’d like to hear about that one board, the board that came like a spiritual rewakening, like Skips 12 footer. The long lost love of your life, and even though you are married to a different board you’ll never forget that one.
had a 7 foot outer island .Took it to the maldives never got a ding .As it got older and broner I sold it to a mate and he promptly snapped it. Had the best trip and the best rides on that stick
I experimented with the bonzer bottom concept in the early nineties on a 7 foot hybrid thruster. That board ended up being my main ride for 3yrs. It was the most versatile board I have ever had. I’m not a big wave rider so it could handle anything I would go out in. Whether it was small, mushy,clean,fat,hollow…it always came through for me. It was one of my early shapes and looked rather crude, but I loved that board. I still have it but it just doesnt feel the same as it did before.
I borrowed a 6’10" diamond tail in the mid-70’s called a “Sea of Joy”. I paddled out on it thinking, “this board’s dumb, I’ll just get one wave…” Well, first wave, first turn, I knew this board was alive. It went INSANE, I felt like I could do anything. Fast, loose and blew away ALL the boards I rode up to that point- by a LONG shot.
Unfortunately, it was my brother-in-law’s board and he wanted it back. I offered him cash on the spot since I only saw him surf one time and that was with cut-off Levi’s and I remember him barely getting to his feet and toppling over, and going in.
For about a month, I kept thinking about that board. I could have been World Champion or something on that thing, so when I finally saw my brother-in-law again I offerred him double what I did before and he just laughed… He sold the board at the swap meet that last weekend.
I was crushed. Could never duplicate the shape either. Dang!
Probably in some landfill with a pre-fabbed community built over it…
Last week I waxed up a board for the first time that I bought about a year ago. It had been sitting in my garage waiting for the right day but that day never seemed to arrive. Then curiousity got the better of me and I took it out in blown out mush. The waves were poor but the board
rode beautifully: fast and smooth.
Then the sun came out and the wind dropped and I started humming the theme music from Morning of the Earth.
The board? Oh yes, a mid 70’s triple stringer single fin, about 7 foot long shaped by Greg Sauritch.
I knew it was still around. She is fast and she is smooth. I was considering chasing her down i was going to ask if you still had it. I figured as long as its in the hands of dear friend. Russ, check out these shots. You and me at lancing last year.
What do you know two Russells in Brighton. I cant really afford to buy another surfboard at the moment. Maybe i’ll check back when i can. Thats crazy that you replied to this post and you have my old board. I was watching the seedling the other day and feeling nostalgic about california and surfing that old board.
You should enjoy her. She’ll treat you well. She’s loyal. Cheers.
The first board I ever owned was a Greg Noll single fin - about 7’ or 7’4 as I remember, with a single big, yellow, raked fin. I still remember like it was yesterday the glide under my feet the first time I caught an unbroken wave on it. I remember thinking that I hadn’t caught the wave because it felt so smooth, unlike the bounce of the already broken waves that I had been learning on. But I hadn’t missed it. I was gliding across that green summer wave 25 years ago toward the 14th street jetty in Belmar, New Jersey.
If I saw that board today I would kiss it, just for that one first wave and the places that glide has taken me since then. If anyone in NJ reads this and thinks he might have that board up in the rafters of his garage, please let me know.
THere’s been a few. First was a 7’8" John Holly egg from the Green Room on Newport Ave. Grandfather gave me 100 bucks to get a hair cut. Got the cut, got the money, and ordered the board. I had to come up with another 15 bucks to pick up the board. Learned a lot from that board. Second was a 6’0" thruster. Was told Harbor Bill didn’t like it. I never surfed better on that board. Rode it till it was roached and gave it to a friend who also loved it. Came close on a couple of others. Always trying to get that feeling. Know what I mean? Mike
i still have my first board it was a 1960’s 6’2 atlantic with a yellow center and some green rails and a big purple fin. i got it in a garage sail for like 25 bucks. the thing was a tank but was so much fun to ride, pretty hard to turn when i was like 10 years old but it was still an awesome board. i hadnt rode it in a long time until last month and when i took it out it was like taking it out for the first time all over again. it was one of those momets in your life where droping everything clearing your bank account and getting on a plane seems like the only thing to do.
