Balsa is more than cosmetic. Sorry I joke too much!
Balsa on the bottom is good. I just don't like it when there done plank style were is looks like flooring.
Performance
Weight
Cosmetics
Kayu post some pic please!
Oneula good coments for sure.
I did a board over 3 years ago with XPS rails and 1 pound eps center. The board was crazy good.
The key is in the core. I like XPS even though many people hate it. However if processed right you can have a nice core.
I have been looking in to the Rohcell and a rep has qouted some pricing I can share with you by PM and let me know your thoughts? I have a storage unit with 5 billets of 8' x 24" x 5 5/8" XPS DOW SURFBOARD CORE to play with. I was going to also get a sheet of Rohcell I wasn't thinking to use it for rail material however that's not a bad Ideal. It's the same lines I was thinking to do the rails in XPS because of the cost savings and it's tried and true. I have a couple of sticks of balsa I can make some veener for the bottom on one of them. No need to buy it. My Bandsaw is a Laguna HD16 and cuts like butter. I have a re-saw king blade that is brand new. I have a secrete sauce that will be interesting how it all plays out. I want to have at least 1 or 2 of the boards in the water by saturday to be tested.
Any Ideals that you may have? I'm all ears.
There is nothing you can accomplish as long as you don't care who gets the credit!
Paulownia deck-balsa bottom and rails...........a very light board with not one heel mark in the paulownia deck .
these boards are firing in indo right now remember what i said micheal dont go overboard
**everything mentiond here i have done over & over & come back to simple as’'[img_assist|nid=1041734|title=c d d|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480][img_assist|nid=1041148|title=4wsf|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=640|height=480]
**
All class Huie.............................................it's a complicated process to achieve simplicity !
yea kayu once you get away from the hp supa light construction the possibilites are endless
if i build a six pound board i can get it last the rest of your life for sure
**we should be building retros in composites eh’’
**
Thanks Huie. I was starting to get side tracked. Some of these materials drive the cost so high it doesn't make sense.
I was going to make my own veneers however your right about KISS. Time wise it will be cheaper to just buy it.
Your boards are Killer. I really think that your compsands look the best out there.
i WILL MAKE A NEW ROCKER BED TODAY. The first two blanks are done. One is already Shaped and the other I will cut today. It's going to be a busy week. I will need a few different ones..
Thanks for keeping me in line!
Nice work!
we should be building retros in composites eh''
They could be bullet proof!
I'll have to try the Resin X for myself. Thanks for the information.
This year at the glass shop were glassing lots of PU with Resin X Epoxy. Really great end product especially with the new Kwik Kick from Greg! Add S cloth and you have one very light and strong board!
I really like the S Cloth. Never worked with Resin X. Some glassers say it's hard to work with? I don't know?
Vacuumed the first one today. It took less than a 1/2 to set it all up. I'm not sure how long I need to leave it in the bag?
2:30PM it went in the bag with Resin Research and secrete sauce. This may sound corny but my wife is hooked on this stuff. She did it with me and made it so much easier with a extra set of hands.
Here's some pic's of the first one:
I'm using 7HG. I hope I'm doing this right?
Ahh, perforated release and breather. Nice combo. Depending on your foam weight you might have been able to go higher in pressure to get a lighter laminate. The perforated release will hold a much higher resin to cloth ratio so you could have gone higher pressure, (lower hg's) to keep the weight down. The balance is the point that you have pin holes. The other option that I ended up going with was to record your resin amount and cut back to the minimum amount. The perforated release can be hard to regulate resin to cloth ratios with by pressure and by using less resin your lay up is less messy and less wastefull.
The only thing that I would have done different it you did a 2 shot process was to pull all the extra bag under the deck and gather it on the bottom just as the bag starts to suck down but before you reach full vacuum. That way as you start to reach your full pull you can fully smooth out the glass on the rails and get the bag tight over the rail and laps on the bottom. If you did a one shot then its harder to get a smooth transition on the bag from top to bottom.
Did you meet your target weight?
I now realise I wrote my original post very ambiguously. What I meant was do deck and hull separately - I can’t imagine how wrinkles can be avoided otherwise. If the film works good then thats fine (I haven’t tried it) but I got very good results with “peel ply” - no wrinkles. Like what DMP said gathering the bag on the non-lammed side was how I avoided wrinkles - along with cutting radial slits in the edges of the peel ply on the rail wrap at intervals (approx 6 - 8" intervals I think).
With peel ply 7hg squeezed quite a lot of resin out so I think its a good pressure but I don’t know about what pressure is best for the release film.
Looks like you are learning really fast Surfding!
DMP - Thanks for the reply.
This was my first solo flight. I only did the deck.
At 7 HG the skin was so tight on the deck lam. This was more of a test to get my feet wet. I will try different presures. I am really please at the result. Next time I will use less epoxy. The peel ply was easy to peel and still clean? The breather cloth has all kinds of dots of epoxy. No big deal however I could reduce the amount of materials by 100 grams. The deck skin came out super light. I will do more variations this week. My pump runs really quite and I'm glad I added the vacuum control and mac valve to it. It ran for 2 minutes in the begining has the bag became real tight. Shut off then came back on a 1/2 hour latter for 10 seconds then shut down. I left it in the bag for 7 hours. When I pulled it out it the lam was dry and wrinkle free. My next one I will do rail laps. I found out that I don't need so much stuff in the bag. However the materials I have to work with are pretty forgiving. I was wondering how much timeI really need in the bag? It seem like I could shave off a couple of hours?
SD
O.K. I got a pretty good picture on what you did. Not too bad to do yeah and how is that lamination? Squashed flat! There is no way you could do that by hand, maybe on Jupiter.
I never tried to reuse the perforated film, but then I never tried. It is so cheap I would just toss it with the breather.
You'll find that as you use less resin the crushing action of the vacuum and the way the perforated release holds more resin in the cloth will make up for what might look like too little resin during the wet out. I'd wet out the cloth and then instead of leaving it resin rich to avoid pinholes I'd squeege out as much of the extra resin as possible and use the perforated release with just enough vacuum to just start to see dots on the breather.
The laps are easy to do. They don't need to be done anywhere close to a hand lamination style. You don't even need to worry about creases in the cloth or even in the release. You just don't want a cloth crease over a section of film. It will trap the fim and then you have to sand it out. A cloth crease will crush flat and be flush with bottom as long as the film is over the flap. As I said before just be carefull to make sure your film is longer than your breather to prevent the breather from contacting the cloth and resin directly, because it will stick.
On the 50 min hardener I'd leave it in the bag for 5 hours at 80 degrees F. the fast hardener would be for 3 hours. You can pretty much finger test the bag. Once the air is out and it feels firm it is done. There is no way air or cloth will spring back into the laminate once it has kicked.
At our shop we have in house glassing. The owner of the glassing side of our shop was commenting that he has never seen a layup so tight to the deck. And that with Hybrd Cloth.
5 hours sound like it would be about right.
Again thank you and everyone else for the insight!
I am super jelous of your vacuum pull down time and vacuum holding ability. Could you please post a picture of your vaccuum connection at the bag end?