the cool old surfers we remember

General Discussion
1

We all remember some cool old guys that were there before us, and maybe we were lucky enough to know.  

Was down in the bay area recently, visiting kids/grandkids, went for a walk along the bluff above several of my favorite waves, waves I literally used to surf alone for years. 

At the south end of the ridge sat down with my feet dangling over the edge, thought about the years spent, and  about one of the coolest old cats I was ever fortunate to meet.

Where I sat was also alongside where I had spent the nights for 4 months in an old truck and camper shell after being discharged from the service in 71, until I finally found a rental in what used to be a very small town with few to offer. 

Came back up the cliff one day after a long, solo morning session, to find a nattily dressed elder in his 70’s standing at the top, a big smile on his face.  He said the waves looked really fun, which they were, and we got to talking.

Turned out his name was Stan Ross.  I had heard about Stan and his pioneering mat surfing exploits along the coast since I had started surfing, and the wave I had just been surfing was called Ross’s Cove, a wave he had pioneered long ago.

I had a couple of folding chairs at the truck, set them up exactly where I was now sitting, and we sat down, me with my wetsuit rolled down, Stan with his checkered shirt, bolo tie, and trim leather jacket, and listened to Stan talk story for quite a while as we watched the unridden sets roll into the cove.

And what a story he had to tell.  About the waves he had surfed, adventures and hi-jinx with the friends he had known, the work he put into improving his surf mats (the glue was the thing), the wool clothing used for cold water protection as that was all they had, trips down the California coast, camping in the field across from Steamer Lane, early forays with Jack O’Neil at SFOB, all told with a smile and stoke that still permeated every word he spoke.  After he left, I felt like I had been given an early Xmas present, a damn good one.

Saw Stan a few more times during the next handful of years, usually at the cove bearing his name, once at the Lane where we chatted some more while watching the surfers at play. 

What turned out to be the very last time I ever saw Stan, after not having seen him for quite a while, I’d walked up the path and found him staring intently at the cove lineup, which was firing pretty good. 

As I sidled alongside, noting he looked much frailer then the last time I had seen him, I cleared my throat, not wanting to startle him.

Then inquired politely, “Hi Stan, what’s up?”

“Surfing” Stan replied, keeping his gaze focused on a breaking set, “and i’m getting some very fine rides.”

 

2

First of all my family of surfing uncles (RIP) 

then those other “uncles” I have been blessed to share a break and session with every now and then.

Uncle Kimo Hollinger at Courts or Northshore surfing in his speedos

Uncle Grant Kauhane (RIP) at home, Makaha, or Courts and his famous uncle grant one knee take off

Uncle Buffalo Keaulana at Makaha with his webbed gloves

 

These guys below aren’t too much older than me but I still respectfully call them “uncle”

Uncle “Hawaiian” David Kahapea (PPK’s brother) in his white hair, beard and speedos at Alii Beach

Uncle Carlos Andrade at Hanalei Standup paddling in his beard, speedo’s and waist band ding string (like woody and ole use)

One thing in common among them all was their upright ali’i stance on the biggest set waves, pure styles and of course their deep down rascal nature 

 

Others I wish I could’ve shared a line up with to experience their mana’o is that if I surfed Waikiki would have included these “uncles” :

John Kelly (RIP), Lex Brodie (RIP), Woody Brown (RIP), Jammer Kekai(RIP) and George Downing

I’m about 10 years too young but it would have be great meeting Duke and his family

 

feels weird when the young guns in the lineup you don’t know start calling you “uncle” too

its usually something like “go, uncle go!”

 

3

good story ICC - goosebumps

4

Cool story, icc. Tony from OB San Diego. Cool guy. Still stoked on surfing until his neck got all calcified or whatever. Had surgery to repair it and he was never the same.  He had the two ‘elbows’ below his knees from knee paddling.  I wonder how he’s doing or if he’s even alive… Mike

5

Icc - very cool story! You wouldn’t believe it! I actually surfed – with Jack O’Neill! But I didn’t meet him. Dunno, but I didn’t want to bother him as I figured these famous people get pestered too much…Anyway, this was the day I was testing out what turned out to be a real "Jacob’s " long board for the first time! Anyhow, I have NO DOUBT WHATSOEVER I it was Jack bcuz I saw his picture on local papers, surf shop etc… we caught lots of waves ( fun little rollers) -no bull! It was “just living in the moment”, not thinking, just having fun…I started at the hook at 620 am, ended up almost at pleasure point. I remember my sister’s bf pestering me to try his lb for over a mos…finally, I agreed! I took the board and paddled out and it dawned on me -It was just myself, Jack, and maybe two other people? I don’t remember much bcuz I was too busy
Learning about that JAcobs…good times!

6

Royalty…

last time I was on the north shore, surfed a lesser reef on a smaller day with some young gals who were just an absolute blast to be sharing the waves with, so much infectious fun…they gave me the “go Uncle” on a few sets they could have hustled me on…those gals were raised right…

surfboards are just surfboards…its the folks in the tribe that makes it what it is…

 

 

7

Surfed Jockos this winter a few times and Jock was out. I was stoked. He is a very nice guy. Great surfer.

8

I remember the good times with good friends. How lucky I’ve been in life to have them.

9

Back in 80’s, quite a few of the old timers surfed at Queens in the early morning. I had a chance to surf out there with guys like Blue Makua, Jamma Kekai, Lex Brodie and it was always a lot of fun. They were really mellow and happy guys.

There were a lot of cool old guys at Courts too. Many mornings Kimo Hollinger would be out with Langsdorf Kane (Langs). Those 2 caught all the waves that everyone else missed and rode them all the way through the inside. I got be good friends with Lango, but Kimo was kinda quiet. Sadly Langs passed away a while ago. I called Langs Lango because he made a board at the interisland factory and he was so happy with it. On one side he signed it shaped by Lango Fandango, and on the other it said glassed by Lango van Gough.

There was another crew of old timers who would come out after the early morning gang had their fill. I used to get off work at 10 and surf with those guys a lot. That’s when I met uncle Grant Kauhane. We became friends, but he used to call me Mike all the time. I stopped telling him my name wasn’t Mike after a while and he was shocked some 20 years later when he finally learned my name wasn’t Mike. There were quite a few older guys I never see anymore, many have kids who became regulars out at courts. I loved surfing with the older guys, so mellow and happy. Everyone got waves and no one was an asshole when they were all out. The late morning crew was the best.

The 80’s were great, that’s when I met a lot of guys out at Courts. The 90’s saw a whole new crew and lots of the old guys slowly disappeared. Even guys like China don’t surf much anymore, but guys like Sonny Ahuna, Fuj, and Mark (?) are still going and still surfing really good. It won’t be long before I’ll be one of the old guys.

 

10

What about Henry Preece, or Kit Horn?

11

I didn’t know those guys, but my aunty grew up in Haleiwa and knew Henry. She probably surfed with him back when she was younger. She used to surf with us when we were kids. I’ve surfed Makaha many times when Buffalo came out. I love the way he surfs.

12

good memories, Mike…lol.

Without that heritage that links the past and the present, it’s just sport…

13

Kit Horn passed on a few years back. He was great guy always had time for kook like me. 

14

Without any question the coolest old surfer I ever met , and I have surfed in a lot of places around the world , was Rell Sunn , she was the coolest in every imaginable way , sadly she did not get to be old , we miss you aunty Rell .

15

She seemed to always have a smile on her face.     She lived right down the street from me, (Makau St.) on the point at Makaha.      Would frequently see her riding her bike, going to check the surf.     Buff was living right on the beach, at the guard tower.      Max Lim was a really congenial guy in the water.      Only saw him if the surf was macking.     A very pleasant man to surf with.

Bill

16

Hah, you must be young. I don’t consider Rell an old surfer. She was special a wonderful, beautful person. She was also a very good surfer. She was a commentator for a show I did on the second women’s Molokai to Oahu canoe race. We were staying at the Kalua Koi (old Molokai Sheraton) hotel and there was a nice swell. It was so funny to see her trying to get all the business stuff done so she could catch a few waves. She managed to get out and surf for a while. Spent 2 days working with her on that show. Before that, I’d been out at Shark Country with her and her sister Anella (and a whole lot of others). They would come down when it was really good because Anella was married an Ewa Beach guy, Steve Gardner, brother of wildman Chris Gardner who was a cofounder of Lightning Bolt.

 

17

Sorry sharkcountry I meant as in old time , Rell would have been about her late 60s by now , and I am way older than that .

18

 

That’s what I miss about surfing with the old guys, they weren’t in a hurry, they didn’t have to catch the next wave, or get a wave every set. You like this one? Go! Everyone smiling and happy, everyone watching out for each other. When someone goes for a wave you let them have it, you don’t try to snake um. Often you’ll hear. let’s go! Meaning lets ride um together, you go right, I go left, or I’ll follow you. The old guys always paddle around the break too, they don’t paddle out through the break. In the old days you do that and you get run over, it’s your fault so no cry.

19

I keep getting my posts cut up. The last 2 are missing whole paragraphs!

Rell was a little older than me.

20

That happens to me sometimes too, but only on my mom’s computer, so I thought it was her computer. I end up having to edit, and re-type what disappeared when I hit “save”.

This is great, thanks for posting this. I never had any older surfers as an influence in my life, just went to the beach and surfed, its awesome to read about surfing with the old guard, a real privilege. I do remember the pre-leash days, when most everyone paddled around rather than through, never really thought about it much til you posted that.