Is there a difference?
I have the older one but was wondering if teh new one is worth checking out?
Thanks.
Is there a difference?
I have the older one but was wondering if teh new one is worth checking out?
Thanks.
Are you sure about “Toshiba”? What about “Hitachi”?
The Clark modified Hitachi has, amongst other features, a faster depth adjustment system, ground edges, longer cord, etc… which make it more practical for shaping surfboards than a standard carpenter’s planer.
they aren’t that different in my opinion. The handle’s changed a bit, the new one supposedly cuts better going backward (but they had to cut the belt cover to accomplish that), and the longer cord (which you could do to your old one in 10 minutes if you wanted)…
The handle has been repositioned, it makes it more comfortable to hold if you like the way the old skil 100’s handles were arranged. Some modifications were made to the belt cover and body, this allows for cross-back cutting at full open, on the older model this was not an option (although many people just do it themselves- I’ve use a hand grinder to make the mod) this is nice if you like to remove a lot of material fast. (Production) The cord has been moved so that it is more out of the way, and the best part- a completely, and easily removed front shoe and grip, so fixing and oiling the front end is effortless now. With the older models this was always a major pain in the ass. Other than that… no difference -Carl
The differences between the two planers is HUGE. The two main things you are going to notice are the geometry and the action. The geometry was changed by moving and re-orienting the rear handle. The main thing gained is control of the tool. The action was improved by using precise parts inside the front handle. The parts are completely different from the previous model. The “slop” is completely gone and when it is tuned properly (the front handle/shoe can be disassembled and preloaded to suit the shaper’s taste) you will find your shaping will go to a new level. I am very impressed by the extremely thin “fly-cut” passes that could never be done with the old model. There are some other details which enhance back cutting as well as overall stability. If you can get it with the gnarly super sealed bearings I believe you would be very satisfied with the new planer.
There’s one mod you still need to make…
SHAPING ROBOT - EYES RIGHT
SHAPING ROBOT - EYES LEFT
Picked up a new clark planer but the front shoe has a couple divit/pop marks on the surface.
Does that matter since they are before the blade or should the front shoe be just a completly
shiny flat surface.
It shouldn’t make a difference but be sure the shoe won’t make any marks on the foam. Also be sure the marks on the shoe don’t “steer” the planer at all…