I am trying to drees up my board before i glass it. SInce this is my first board i want to keap it simple. I really wanted to to a resin tint but was told that it is too hard and that i would need to do a cut lap. All this talk about pinlines bleeding is making me want to stay away from them. What is the difference bettween a resin pin and a water based pin. Ok here is my final solution (hopefully). I will laminate the bottom and have one small cup of really dark resin tint and poor a small amount of it in toward the nose and squegee it back look like a fireball with a trail hopefully. Since the color wont be continuis i should still be able to do a free lap, right? THanks in advance you guys are great!
Should work fine. Don’t let any drips go over the rail edge and be sure to add plenty of catalyst to the colored resin.
that’s a pic of end grain balsa in the transition area on flex tail board Matt & Kirk had in Big Sur. (see next thread)
Your idea sounds cool. But dont be afraid of cutlaps; I think they are actually easier, because your lapwork while glassing doesnt have to be perfect. The slopp and strings on the ends just go onto the tape and get cut off leaving a nice smooth lap with hardly any cleanup required before glassing the top. Once you are really good at glassing ( you get a perfect lap with no strings hanging off and super even resin distibution) then a freelap is much easier because you eliminate a step. have fun and good luck!
if you add colored resin on top of a wet lam coat, it’ll show a “screen” effect where the gaps between the glass yarns hold more color and the tint will be thinner on top the glass strands. Here’s a better way to make a “comet”… finger paint using colored resin on a sanded hot coat. I used to do this way and you could get quite striking color effects. Use finish resin or add surfacing agent to the colored resin. When dry hit it gently with 220 or 400 grit then finish coat over it all. The areas with color will be a little taller and will need to be wet sanded flat, but if you’re not particular about a dead flat finish it may not matter whether you do this or not. Anyway, you can always put off the last sand and buff till later. Another way: use acrylic (water based) paint on the foam directly. Just be aware that as in water coloring, the colors will bleed into each other quite a bit. Test on a foam scrap first to evaluate the bleed effect.
to john,kirk,or matt miller; i am very interested in the hull designs in the picture that you posted. would it be possible for one of you guys to share some details about these fine shapes; dimensions,shaper,etc.? thank you for your time. gc.