yep , I rode my “prawn” for the first time in ages today …
In head high [occassionally] , bumpy , onshore swell [because there was almost no-one out , and also , because I wanted to try out these carbon fibre side fins I made a while ago…
after 2 weeks of riding my 9’ mal in glassy waist high waves…
my first takeoff felt wobbly , unstable , awful …
I had a shocker of a surf , in short.
oh well, maybe tomorrow .
it’s forecast to be offshore , and hopefully some more swell on the way , perhaps with some shape .
Another guy who paddled out got tubed , did floaters , a coupla airs , and a 360 for good measure .
He caught as many waves in ten minutes as I caught in an hour .
do you get those days ??
oh well, I guess at least the last few days I had caught heaps of good waves on the mal . It was my turn to have a shocker , by the law of averages , I suppose .
ben
…I also thought afterwards , I should have just stuck a good sized back fin in , to cope with the bump and backwash and taken out the carbon fibres at the front . [this was the first time I have not taken my fin bag to the beach with me , when surfing the prawn . It will be the last time I forget to do that , hopefully ].
…live and learn , eh ?!
