The role of the wood surfboard in surfing history

[Huck]

I know bits and pieces of the role of the wood board in the history and progression of the modern surfboard.  Since there's such a wealth of surfing knowledge and history here on swaylocks, I thought I'd put this out there.

I know the ancient Hawaiians rode wood boards called olos and alias, and these were the original surfboards, when surfing was the sport of the kings.   The influence of the missionary prohibition (19th century?) on surfing during western takeover of the Sandwich Islands put surfboard building and riding on a back burner.

Later, with the modern resurgence of interest in the sport of surfing, due in large to the influence of Duke Kahanamoku, wood was once again the surfboard material of choice.  Hot curls and kookboxes were the surfcraft of the 1930's.  Wasn't there a place in L.A. that made the swastika models?  Balsa, redwood, koa, ulu, wiliwili.  This was the era of Tom Blake, Dale Velzy, Bob Simmons, Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin.

Once the foam revolution hit (1950's?), wood boards became a historical novelty, no longer able to compete with the lighter, more specifically suited foam and fiberglass boards.  Still, guys like Pat Curren and Greg Noll did make occasional boards out of balsa or redwood, and wood remained a mainstay for stringers, showing up occasionally also in fins, nose blocks, and tail blocks. 

In recent times, there has been a resurgence of interest in wood surfboards.  People like Paul Jensen, Brad Tucker, Lon Klein, Chad Stone, Rich Blundell, Jack Young, Roy Stewart, Tom Wegener, Roger Hall, Gary Linden, all have contributed in their own way to the modern adaptation of the wood surfboard.  I think Tom Wegener was largely responsible for the rebirth of the alaia.  Tow-boarders like Laird have chosen wood for its dampening qualities in rough seas and high speeds.  The compsand homebuilders and professionals like Sunova have adopted wood as the skin of choice, and I think (but not sure) that some form of wood is used in Surftech and GSI composite veneers.

At the recent Sacred Craft Ventura (honoring Yater) trade show, wood's presence was definitely felt.

While gaining in popularity among a "splinter group", wood is not considered a high performance material (the exception being compsand), that is still the realm of the foams (pu, eps, xps).  Nevetheless, wood has been proven to be a rideable and fun alternative to the far more prevalent and generally lighter foam boards. 

Got any pics or history to share?  Be interesting to hear.

[MrT]

Hi Huck, check out this post:

 

http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/balsa-pre-formed-rails

Looks like someone looking for what we discussed.

Regards

 

MrT

[SammyA]

Outside of Hawaii, most wooden boards of the early 20th century were redwood. Redwood/balsa combos became common in the 30s. With the advent of fiberglass and resin in the 40s, balsa was the material of choice. Before that, balsa was considered too soft and only used to reduce weight. Redwood rails and nose w/ balsa in the center was a typical configuration. The “Swastika” model from Pacific systems and also the Blake boards from LA Ladder Co used redwood/balsa comboes. Post WWII, nearly all boards were balsa and many were built from salvaged Navy life rafts.
Styrofoam was used rarely , except in some experimental boards by guys like Simmons. When polyurethane foam entered the picture around 1957, wood became very much a niche item and it was nearly 100% balsa that was used. Virtually no one used redwood by 1960, except as stringer material. It was either redwood or balsa as standard for stringers then. A few offered mahogany, but it was considered too heavy by most. Many longboard labels offered balsa boards at a premium price well into the 60s. Bahne and Channin/Diffenderfer resurrected interest in balsa around the mid 70s. These were typically chambered construction and a far cry from the balsa boards of the early 60s.

Here’s a mid 70s Bahne ad with one of their balsa boards.

[glansing]

The board was featured in a full page add in Surfer magazine. It ended up in the window of a Satellite Beach surf shop.
One night a couple of surfers threw a brick through the window and stole it. They were afraid to use it so a couple of
years later they sold it to me. I took in to Fiji with me where I was posted as a Peace Corps volunteer. After surfing
on it for three years I sold to an Indian fellow from Suva who wanted to become a surfer.
Gary Lansing

[SammyA]

[Quote=glansing]The board was featured in a full page add[sic] in Surfer magazine.
[/quote]

Right. That’s what I posted. It’s the ad that appeared in Surfer Mag, scanned right from the magazine.

So, you took a board that you knew was stolen to Fiji?

[spuddups]

Hi Gary, did you know at the time you brought the board that it was stolen?

[pinnypinny]

I would add Grant Newby to that list, he runs the yearly wooden surfboard day here in Australia.

[pdugan]

The Bahne shop in Satellite Beach was owned by two brothers, Jim and Joe Schact (sp?), who I went to high school with. Both were very good surfers. Unfortunately, I do not remember the balsa board. Coincidentally, their shop was right across from Balsa Bill’s current location.

I currently have a 9’2" balsa in my quiver. I don’t want to hijack the thread, but would like to discuss the different riding characteristics I’ve found with the balsa. I’ve been surfing over 50 years, having started with the traditional longboards of the mid-sixties.

[sharkcountry]

My understanding of the switch to foam was because finding good balsa for surfboards became harder with the number of guys building boards. I think a lot of the old timers liked the weight of a “lightweight” balsa board, of course that is for a traditional longboard.
I haven’t had a chance to ride a “real” balsa board, or other solid wood boards. The wood boards I have held felt heavy on land.
Of the longboards I have or have ridden with that kind of weight, you aren’t going to be trying to hotdog, but they are great for long walled up waves. My current heavy weight longboard is really fun in the smaller surf. The days when there’s a nice wall, but it’s only waist to shoulder high.

[kayu]

few people today understand the performance virtues of wood as a surfboard raw material , beyond using it as a marketing thing, or a way to get website traffic…those that do understand , just give a nod and walk off smiling to themselves.

[thrailkill]

The photo, in your post above, is an example of the perfect balance of beauty and function. Quite a piece of workmanship.

[sharkcountry]

I think the extra weight is good for waves of consequence, double over head and up, or windy days. My boards for bigger days are heavier. This is made from an old PU windsurfer. It’s about 7-10, thick and heavier. I only use it during the summer swells when the waves get their biggest (usually double OH max).

[glansing]

I found out the Bahne balsa wood board was stolen about ten
years after I returned from Fiji running into an old Florida buddy
one day surfing Canoes in Waikiki. He knew the surfer/thief who
stole it.

[DEADSHAPER]

Neat thread to start up!

I’ve been working with a crew of stoked guys in Ecuador producing the first BF balsa boards. One of them is a shaper that has produced quality balsa boards for over 15 years. Ecuadorean balsa wood is considered by many as the prime balsa to build a quality surfboard from. The interesting aspect of balsa is how you can build a fairly light contemporary design surfboard that feels even lighter once you are in the water riding it. The models with lightweight foam inside them haven’t required vent while the hollow core ones I currently have we have installed Gore Tex vents for traveling purposes.

One advantage to balsa wood is its admirable resistance to compression. Greenough started using balsa in the rails of his flex spoons after mentioning to me that the foam rails would degrade from all the compression and flexing his vehicles were subjecting the foam to. Of course the newest polyurethane foams are netting some very impressive results in the recent past and we are forging ahead in that department.

Still, the feeling of riding a solid or chambered balsa wood board is something that should be experienced given the opportunity. The solid feel and lack of timbre or vibration that a big wave balsa gun could impart, was often mentioned from respected big wave riders during the 60’s & 70’s more than once.

The Ecuadorean balsa has a LOT of air in it, and when properly cured and constructed, the performance is much more than what old notions hold to. These boards are a far cry from the pretty looking veneer over EPS jobbies that are attractive due to costing less to build while still producing impressive resistance to denting and general wear and tear.

The bottom line is, today’s foam is pretty marvelous stuff for the massive load bearing the materials experience… we expect so much out of a 5 to 8 lb. surfboard, but given the chance, grab a balsa and go ride it… it will give you a very different and pure feeling, and that’s not a bad thing at the end of the day.

[spuddups]

Okay, looks like you’re off the hook then.

[WideAWAKE]

Tow weight foam??

How does it compare to balsa?

Seems like it could produce a pretty similar board. Could be easily chambered aswell.

[MrMik]

I cannot wait for software to be written that automatically (probably with some intelligent oversight required) turns any surfboard shape (CAD file) into a laser cut puzzle kit for home building.
Design your board in software, then have the complete kit laser-cut and delivered home in a box.

[pdugan]

I was able to purchase a balsa longboard from a local surf website in Cocoa Beach, florida. Penciled on the stringer is Montanita, Ecuador. This board had never been in the water!

Coincidentally, I had been to Montanita on a surf trip prior to the purchase.

Hopefully, I can upload a pic of it.