the surf world is full of delusion, but underneath the bullshit there is still love

what is it with these heroes, so desperate to impress

look at my skin shine look at my fine lines

so far removed from the pure childlike exhileration of discovery, making mistakes, learning, overcoming

growing to help

i tire of the empty deluded heroes, thinking their reef, their scene, there emptyness is the center of the universe

i praise god for people like solomonson, ambrose, the 60 year old journeyman at work…and so many nameless others

with no plaque or statue or following or hangers on

Everyday working their ass off, everyday as knowledgable as the self-promoting heroes; yet so forgiving, so willing to share and help the common man, as moronic as we are,

never above the child sliding the shorebreak

SCOUR THE OVERLOOKED REEF AND YOU WILL FEEL GRACE

POUR YOURSELF OUT

Having talked a bit w/ some unsung ones i.e. Dale in recent days, and read/heard interviews with a number of the heros, I’d even say heaps more knowledgable day to day in addition to the compassion/kindness factor which is true knowledge.

I know the only reason you didnt’ say that is because you were being compassionate

with the passion/com passion

the word of fallen comrads

heros in their own spheres

left behind children and wives

stunned by their abscence

echoing their lives accross

the still glassy surface

of the morning aliomanu

inconsistant surf

the wave silence

in between sets

alows the birdsong

to waft to hungry ears

at the near shore.

hungry ears llike hungry hearts

feast at oppertunities to hear

like minded chorus

to songs not yet set to music

lyric woven of fibers so comfortable

and soft like old denim fresh from the dryer.

living as we do

our chances of stepping up

to superceed the concern for

flimsy heroism and replace it

good deeds,respect where respect is due

and long clean glide … appreciation.

…ambrose…

“oh no they cant take that away from me”

geroge and Ira gershwin wrote:

there are many many crazy things

that will keep me lovin you

and with your permission

may I list a few

the way you wear your hat

the way you sip your tea

the memory of all that

no, they cant take that away from me

the way your smile just beams

the way you sing off key

the way you haunt my dreams

NO,they cant take that away from me

we may never never meet again on this bumpy road in life

but I’ll always ,always keep the memory of

that wave you caught outside

the set you let me have…

i got the longest ride

oh no they cant take that away from …

us.

all heros in our own time

…ambrose…

appologies to the gershwins

for liberating the lyric…

p.s. hero was a suicidal greek woman

who chose to not be a good swimmer.

Bravo!

man I consider myself a blessed man to have Ambrose as a friend and a mentor he has navigated me through alot through the years . I have had so much fun its a crime there has been times Ive been with him and I laughed so hard my cheeks hurt . Amen to this post and lets keep this spirit ALIVE as good people pour into you look for willing people to also pour into so we can keep this train movin.Aloha from Anahola where Ambrose was one of the first Haoles to call home and was welcomed .God Help and bless us all JImmy

Quote:

Amen to this thread.

i thank god that there are people like

these to look to for inspiration.

you-all don’t know them buy, my

grand parents are included in my list

along with Solomonson, Ambrose, and others…