This post has nothing to do with surfboard design unless you count the different types of surfcraft I describe…
This morning, 7 am, south coast break about 40 mins from my place. Solid 4’ rolling right hander…6 people in the water (work day - everyone else is at work!!). Surfcraft count: 2 x 9’+ mals, 1 x shortboard, 1 x kneelo, 1 x 7’ pintail gun (???why??) and 1 x surf ski. All we needed was a mat and the quota would have been complete!!
What was amazing was that everyone was stoked to be there, no agro at all. Sets were spaced far enough apart that everyone had a chance to chat and waves were being given away willy nilly. What the?? Isn’t this surfing caper meant to be a contact sport with just a dash of arrogance thrown in? Apparently not today!! Surfed for 2 and a bit hours before a massive swarm of bluebottles moved in and the kneelo wore one across the face!! Everyone decided it was time to bail, my arms were shot anyway.
One question I do have that the kneelo couldn’t answer as he was in too much pain…at what length does a kneeboard become a surfboard, ie. at what length can you stand up? The board I saw today was around 5’8" which is standable in my book.
Oh and the guy on the pintail gun had a terrible day, didn’t catch a thing!!
Lack of skill won’t get waves with any surfboard design.
Most kneeboarders are big guys, and ride from 5’8" to 6’2", but notice they are really thin, like a directional kiteboard…and really heavy, with triple glass and 14lbs norm weight.
Some surf skis barely weigh 12 lbs., but are fragile and unstable at rest.
Ok so correct me if I’m wrong, as I’m sure you all will, didn’t the fish design evolve from kneeboarders who just ‘stood up’? That being the case, I’m not really sure I see the attraction of the kneeboard except that you can ride it either on your knees or standing up…hell I can do that on my mal on a bad day!!
I agree about being able to overcome with skill. For example…i was out at rincon maybe two weeks ago and two guys come to mind. The first and more relavent was a guy on a 5’2" twinzer breezing by sections and a guy out surfing on a body board. It was amazing, no fins, just a mach 7-7 looked like. I saw him doing consecutive 360’s while surfing it. Crazy. He looked like he was from Hawaii. Anyways…i’ll just say that kneeboards and retro fish twin fins are very close cousins.