I had just finished sanding my board down to 22O and wiped it down with water which made it look really nice. Is there any way to get that wet look without doint a gloss coat? I don’t want to spend hours going through the grits again. Is there some oil or what not that will give that look without adding weight or work time?
The only thing that I can think of that will give that kind of shine without work is to get a professional spraypainter to do a 2Pack clear over it.
Yeah Jeff,
Take it to a proper panel shop, where they have the dust-free and temperature controlled room to spray 2pac without flaws, and LEGALLY! Straight off- the-gun finish takes a ridiculous amount of care and skill.
You can have a ridiculously shiny board with NO RUBBING WHATSOEVER!
Thats my wet-dream...But since I don't want to pay for it, as you know, my middle name is...
Josh
OK , answered my own question- Thompson’s Water Seal. I was digging around our house painting supplies in ainticipation of painitng llilibel’s room and came across a gallon of the stuff and thought, “Why not?”
I took a tiny amount on a paper towel and tested it on the board. It didn’t melt the epoxy. SSo far so good. So I wiped down the whole board and then took some dry paper towels and wiped as much off as much I could. The whole process took 5 minutes and added zero weight. But it hid the sandthroughs (where I hit the weave) and brought out the color and grain. To give you an idea- the mother of pearl inlay before water seal was totally dead, like just plain white. After water seal it came back to life, became pearlescent.
One caveat- 48 hour dry time! They ain’t kidding either. I thought, “8 hours, must be dry” and handled the board and left finger prints
The true test will be the sun and the salt water. I did a repair on a veneered Surftec for a friend, he smashed the nose on the rocks. I was completely stoked on how well the repair came out and in an attempt to match the finish of the board I used some water based polyurethane, I think… that was some time ago and the only type of clearcoat I had. Well, we happen to be surfing together the next time out and when we got out of the water we noticed the clearcoat turned a milky white color. The horror! actually the saving grace is that it is not that big of a deal to undo something like clearcoat and redo it with something else. Good luck
I used a waterborn polyurethane floor finish as a gloss coat and it would get milky looking with water exposure.
This was easly fixed with a coat of floor or car wax on top and it came out pretty glossy.
I just clicked on your user profile.....very nice...I might not have what you are looking for........
At this point in the game I can get a really good RR Epoxy gloss coat without sanding...Not perfect...ridge around the rail.....lots of small tits and pits but good enough for my Bros.....
What I do for most of my personal boards is sand the gloss coat (second hot coat) with 320 wet by hand using a pad.
Then I use Floor wax to seal the deal.......3 coats...come back the next day and lightly scuff with a Scotch brite pad......
.....Not perfect.... Not 100% what Herb taught me on Swaylock's but close.....
.....From there I can take it all the way to high gloss.....If I need to.......................
Johnson Wax Professional....Low Maintenance Floor Finish.....,,,,,About 15 dollars US for one gallon at Lowes....
Does it yellow ???????.........Maybe ....maybe not....
Greg Loehr's been using 2040 resin for glossing and polishing.
Here's a link to the thread he put up regarding proper glossing and sanding with RR
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/epoxy-glosspolish
Hope this helps
~Brian