Rode this at the Fort Pierce inlet this morning. Thigh to chest. Ish. But a nice water temp of 74 F. Green/blue water. 5-11 by 21.5 quad stringerless with rail chanels.
Had a blast this morning, 3 hours of cleanish 4-5ft peeling lefts all too myself. My cousin walked the dogs and managed some pics. It got cleaner as the tide ebbed! Dont get enough days like this in life!!
Board used is 6’8" X 21 1/4" X 2 3/8" tri fin with 3d centre…
Speysurfer - nice pics, and great story! How did you get the white lettering over purple board?
I’ve been working out of town a lot lately, this break is 5 minutes from my work, surfing pic is not me, I’m a goofy foot. Generally pretty dense crowd out there (its Los Angeles), but I can see the break from my work, and take a little surf break when conditions are good. Surfing crowds is a challenge, especially when you’re the “old guy” in the lineup, never gonna be the alpha dog, but I find I can generally always get a few waves if I go out with the right attitude.
We have been having a long hot summer over here on the eastern island. Still surfing in board shorts. I’ve been surfing this a lot waist to head and a half. Had a bit of a laugh a few days ago when a kid asked if it only went straight being a single fin.
Hiya Huck & thankyou. The surfs been really good over the last few weeks & i’m managing 3-4 sessions a week, long may it continue. I’m still in 6mm of neoprene, but it does have the plus of putting alot of folk off getting wet, that & the remoteness means i surf predominantly by myself.
The 4 decals are all vinyl stickers i put on/over the first layer of cloth,with pigment (4oz) It’s then lammed with a layer of 2.3oz lammed clear. Andl if i accidently burn through into the weave while sanding, i dont need to use colour pigment again as the top layer of cloth is clear.
Glad your getting out and still snagging a few, i have osteo arthritis in both hips and do struggle some days, paddle strenth is still good tho.
Love that pastel blue board under your arm, it’s beautiful…
This board started life for me as a council collection throwout 7’6 , two days after I arrived back in Sydney , in October 2015 . It was only 100 metres from where I was living at the time . I also scored a steamer (wetsuit) , a board bag , and a legrope. God’s provision , for sure , as I had just (semi jokingly?) said to my wife the day I arrived " now I’m back in Sydney , I might need a board " (!)
Back in Sydney , after THIRTY years away , in West Australia . Then I had a 2 1/2 year stint near Phillip Island (south Victoria) . Where I met ‘RDM’ from here , who generously gave me this fin he made , a 'Spitfire ’ … I can’t wait to finally try it out again , in Sydney waves ! yewwww !! ( I also met my wife , Hayley, during that brief time , there in South Victoria. )
Anyway , back to the board in question …
If it wasn’t for the funky popout side plugs , I’d be very tempted to spoon the deck and tail , to lighten it …