Well I’ve been thinking about moving to the Big Island of Hawaii. I haven’t heard much about the surf and the living conditions. I was wondering if anyone has any information about the best places to live and still able to surf quality waves? Any info would help thanks,
Da Cheetah
All the talk about Hawaii in general is that the shrinking middle class can’t afford the housing and cost of living. A lot like coastal California, everyone seems to be talking about the Hilo side as the only place left that is some what affordable.
Most driving for least waves, rocky breaks, prolly the least quality of the major islands, and the least crowded on weekdays.
Most breaks small and rocky, or sometimes bigger and rocky.
Bud Gary Young (Woodwinds) moved there in '89, still there, relocated after lava flowed over his first house, hardly surfs, but living large and building wood laminate boards.
Grew up there, parents and one brother still in Hilo, one bro in Kona.
Hilo is real sleepy, you better have a useful trade to live there or be independently “sufficient”. Kona is growing like mad, housing is hard to find and expensive. Gas is what, $2.50 a gallon for 87 octane? 20 cents a gallon more in Kona than Hilo. Builders of all sorts will find tons of work in Kona, but where to live? Expect to do quite a bit of driving for work in Kona (not hours by mainland standards, but a lot by island considerations).
The breaks are for the most part rocky as hell, very few surfable coral reefs. There are some great breaks, but few and far between. Kona can come up and go down practically overnight but can be flat for months. And wana (sea urchins) are larger, sharper and more plentiful on the Kona side than you have any idea. Access is much better than when I lived there (60s-70s) due to development and new roads. Nowhere surfable will be above a little overhead most of the time, due to shadowing of North Pacific swells by the other islands, plus the rock cliffs on the north and northeast sides. The geologic formation of the island does not produce long waves. Deep water is usually close offshore and there are few fringing reefs to create the waves that, for instance, Oahu has.
Hawaii is not the place I’d move if I still wanted to surf. I get back there a couplel times a year, but I no longer take a board with me. I’d like to, but high airline costs, the improbability of there being surf, and added humbug of the wife and two kids just don’t make it work. Maybe I take my Duck Feet and bodysurf just a hour or two, if in Kona. Hilo side water is too spooky for that due to all the runoff on that side.
Thanks for the info! Yeah I was thinking of a place were I could start a little business and spend time with my kids and teach them about nature and the ocean. I grew up on Oahu now living in Osaka Japan. Got married to a Japanese girl and have 2 kids. I don’t like this city life, to crowded and beaches to far and to cold. I’m in a point in my life were I’m ready to buy a house somewhere warm and next to some surf. Definetly not Japan! Thought the Big Island might be nice but, had never been there or heard of any surf spots except Banyans. Future? What to do and where to go, that’s the question? Houses in Chesterfield Virginia look good but, heard not many good things about the surf. What to do? Hah! Hah! Hah!
Thanks again!
Da Cheetah
Have you been to Kyushu? Is it crowded there too? I haven’t made it down there yet.
It’s definitely too cold here, it’s been snowing up here in Aomori Prefecture for the last few days… but it’s pretty rural up here…
I was also thinking about relocating somewhere in Oz might be nice…
good luck,
Brennan
Aloha Cheetah - just read your thread asking about the Big Island. Not sure if I have much more to add than those guys other than the fact that I currently reside there (here?). I live in Puna (Hilo side). Let’s see if I can add to the info given…
Gas: $2.39/gal (and yes, $0.20 more expensive on Kona side)
Housing: I’m paying $900/month rent in the Hawaiian Paradise Park subdivision (on an acre), about 20 min out of town. That’s about the cheapest you’re going to get for rent. A bit more expensive in town. And WAY more expensive in Kona. During a brief job stint on Kona side I couldn’t find a room in a house sharing with several other people for less than $600/month. Who makes that kind of money for just a ROOM?? I kept my house Hilo side and did the drive 2 days a week. Slept in my van the 2 nights I was in Kona. On the ownership front, I believe the median price out (south) of Hilo town is between $150 - 170K. More expensive in town, and fuhgettaboutit in Kona. Hamakua (north of Hilo) still has some good deals - you can still get land for $2000/acre, but the problem is it’s in such large parcels the deal gets expensive. For a better idea check www.hawaiiinformation.com . Not everything is super current unfortunately, but it will give you an idea.
Work: Not a whole heck of a lot. Yeah, Hilo’s a small town. Yeah, there’s work here, but mostly service industry. Better available work if you are skilled (trade / technical / education). Definitely more trade (mostly construction and its offshoots) in Kona, but… who wants to live there? Allright, some people do, but not me. I prefer wet and green to dry and hot desert moonscape. What kind of ‘little business’ were you looking to start up? The big island has a lot of opportunities for entrepreneurs if you pick the right niche market. Several people I know have done quite well for themselves.
Surf - yeah, we’re shadowed by the other islands and about the only swells we get first are from the south. But there is surf here. Just not a whole lot of spots. At least on Hilo side. There’s Honoli’i just north of Hilo town, and Pohoiki down in Puna. Keaukaha has a couple of breaks, but nothing I’ll bother with. Bayfront Hilo breaks only during the winter and very rarely, but is about the best wave on this side - left point with loooong rides. I haven’t surfed much on Kona side due to the fact that it’s 2 hours away and that makes kind of a long trip to find out that the waves weren’t exactly what you expected. There are several other spots north of town Hilo side, but they’re kind of dark and deep water. I’d never surf them alone - I’ve seen sharks swimming around not too far offshore.
The generalities: Hilo’s a pretty laid back town. If you’re into a more quiet town and more agrarian lifestyle, you’re on. Perfect place to, as you say, spend time with your kids and teach them about nature and the ocean. The diversity of nature and climates here are great to see and explore. We’re the only island where you can see the islands formation process up close in Volcano National Park. And of course there’s snow on Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa during the winter if you’re yearning for cold.
Think that covers most of it. Hope it’s helpful. Feel free to PM me if you have any more questions…
aloha
waxfoot
We’ve got a bigger island!!
Here in Western Australia you can buy a 4 bedroom 2 bathroom house on 600 squre metres near the coast (5-10 miles) for under $200 000 AU
More space, great for kids, lot’s of beaches. The best breaks all within 3 hours travelling time.
If you are a tradesman there are plenty of jobs going with good money…
But I’m biased. If anyone wants to do a reccie or wants more info, I can help you out.
Here’s where some of us live around Perth
cheers
Hicksy
Hey! Brennan
Yes I have been there. That place go’s off. I was thinking about moving there but to many typhoons and not so much work. I’m running a small English school out of my mansion and was thinking I could give it a go and trying to do the same there. Homes are cheap to buy and uncrowded point breaks. Still thinking of moving there. Got a couple of friend who moved from Osaka in search of surf but, every once in a while come back to make their rent. So your living in Aomori? I think the nearest place I know where to surf is in Fukushima. They had the NSA All Japan Surfing championships there this year. I was there. Great waves! A little cold. Osaka sucks!
Da Cheetah
Hicksy! I was considering a reccie in March… maybe I can time it right to catch the masters at Margaret River.
From everything I’ve heard, West Oz seems like an ideal location… I’m seriously considering moving there, so a reccie is definitely in order. North America is getting crowded, Central America has no jobs and rural Japan is nice but I wouldn’t want to raise kids here… too high strung - not enough nature, don’t you think Da Cheetah?
Da Cheetah! Fukushima has got some fun breaks… I was down in Shizuoka about a month ago, also took the train through Osaka on my way to see Kyoto… next time I’m on the move I’ll let you know… we’ll hold a Swaylaholic’s Anonymous for Japan - all two of us. If you come up this way again, you’ve got to see this one rivermouth in Miyagi, maybe an hour north of Sendai - amazingly long wedging rights! Easily my favorite spot in Tohoku, but the place needs a solid swell to work to its potential. I’m also thinking the very northern point of mainland Japan could get epic with a slow moving storm system from the north… but I’ve never been able to catch it at the right time -it’s about a 2 hour trek for me.
Thanks for the lowdown on Kyushu. I’ve been in Aomori for a little over 2 years now with the air force… not too crowded, but city jobs are a bit sparser out in the country. I was thinking about taking a job in Osaka… but like you said, way too much driving. I’m also trying to figure out if I’m staying here or moving on… good luck, let me know what you decide.
cheers,
Brennan
hi brennen, i have a japanese wife too. her dad still works at the osaka station bus depot! she was a nurse in kyoto! my choice for you would be the US air base in okinawa! i have a very good friend living there on the base loving the great waves, reef breaks and warmer waters too. she has been there around 5 years. her and husband are about to retire from the force and settle in the remote surf of tassie! i will be spending 3-4 months a year over there in summer in a couple of years. i will jump in to the nihongosways then too!
Dave! It’s a small, small world! Kyoto is beautiful… Last year I asked the force to send me to Okinawa but they said, fat chance, so i decided to stay up here in Misawa for another year. I’m not sure what I’m gonna do… my girl is in the Japanese Air Force and if she’s going to leave the Misawa base we have to make a decision soon. I’ve never been to Okinawa but we’re planning a trip there this month to visit friends… the surf sounds great! Whenever your headed back to nippon, look me up. Why 3-4 months at a time? Summer vacation?
mata ne! Brennan
I was seriously, seriously thinking about Oz as my destination after my graduation from RN school… But then met an aussie and his american nurse wife and found out you have to have a BSN (4-year degree) to nurse in australia, and I’ll be graduating with an ADN (2-year). It is still an option, but it’ll just be a little more in the future now, a little more education…
I was also thinking more eastern oz, but I haven’t dismissed west oz either. Seems to be something in the water, or the air, there that makes the surfer/shapers stoked, creative and friendly.
DaCheet,
My daughter and son-in-law just moved here from Kona. They previously had lived on Maui. I surf with them a few times each week, but my son-in-law tries to surf seven days a week. When the super high real estate prices and living expenses and crowded localized breaks became too much they flew back to the mainland and visited me. He says this is the best kept secret going for uncrowded surf, warm water (as of this morning the water is still 68 degrees) and really affordable real estate. We picked a papaya off the tree on Thanksgiving day last week and trimmed a ten foot pile of palm leaves and banana leaves from my trees on Sunday. I picked a hibiscus for my wife’s mai tai and a fresh lime for my marg for last night’s evening session.
They arrived six weeks ago and just closed yesterday on a 2bdrm / 1bath nice bungalo house 2 blocks off the beach that sold for $92,000. We live on an island with a population of 60,000, where four major cruise companies depart on weekly trips to the Caribbean and Mexico, we have no freeways, and we’re just a 40 minute drive away from the 4th largest city in the US when we need it. We’ve even got a home depot, a target, and a wal mart! Our favorite restaurants, plant and tree nursery, lumber yard and hardware store, paint store, car repair, liquor store (for eve margs), music store for guitar and ukelele strings, gas, etc., are all within five blocks of my home which is all just a few more blocks from the beach where we saw dolphin swimming while out the other day. There are also three surf shops located just a quick bike ride (blocks) from my house.
Where are we? You’ll look confused when I say it’s Texas. Galveston Island is just off the coast of Texas south of Houston in the Gulf of Mexico. It was devastated in the hurricane of 1900, but much of the old victorian architecture and charm remain and the place has recently started to boom. People here refer to it as “Galveson Island…south of Texas on the South Coast”. Granted, our waves are flat a lot during the summer and sporadic and inconsistent the rest of the year with mainly wind chop, but since they moved here we’ve had something to surf all but three days and have even had a few epic sessions with head high or more with glass faces and smoking tops from offshores.
I bought a house here four years ago as an investment to fix it up, sell, and then move to Hawaii to join my daughter. Now we like it too much to leave, as it’s a great home base. I’m not stingy if you want to move here and share this spot with the others who seem to be coming, but I mention all this as if spouting a chamber of commerce commercial to simply mention it as a suggestion that there are places out there that are not usual to think of, but could just be great “secret” spots.
This isn’t comparable to Tahiti for sure, but when you prepare a list of all the quality of life things we look for in a place to live, I feel Galveston and a lot of other off the beaten path places in the good ole USA still offer a lot to those of us who think a little outside the box.
Happy house hunting and Enjoy The Ride!
I spend alot of time in Kailua-Kona about two miles south of town, across from Banyan’s, towards Lymans. My brother lives in Honokaa and is a general contractor keeping very busy building $$$$$ spec houses.
I like it. There are alot of breaks in the area that can get good but are all very fickle with alot of marine life, turtles, dolphins, some not so good, Tiger’s, poisonious sea urchins. The area has somewhat of a drug problem but what area doesn’t.
Housing is expensive in town. Further south, not so expensive.
I prefer Kona side since windward side is too wet and windy. Kona can get steamy though so if you have problems with heat, maybe Hilo side better.
Unless you have a trade, expect to work in service.
When you do decide to come over, you’re quite welcome to use my place as a start off point.
That invitation is open to all Swaylockians who want to see what an amazingly laid back place Perth and WA is.
We are so lucky to be here.
cheers
Hicksy
You will probably go so I wont speak to down on it. I was in your position 3 months ago and made the move to Kona across from Banyons and my wife and I only lasted a month. $$$$$$$ The money that you need to survive is unbelievable. We rented a studio for 1000 a month. YIKES. We left and ended up in Galveston where there are no crowds and affordable beach housing. Of course there is give and takes, but Im very happy with our decision. Definitly miss the sheer beauty and quality of waves, but what are you going to do. Good luck. Im routing for you. Oregon, Washington, Alaska, and Maine are all fun options as well.
Awesome, thank you. I can’t wait now. The same goes for any other swaylo’s interested in Japan.
cheers!
Brennan
“Kona can come up and go down practically overnight but can be flat for months.” I’m thinking of Big Island relocation too! So do you mean this for the whole Island or just Kona area AND do you mean flat as in can have fun on long board if you want to get wet or flat as in nada, zip, nary a ripple???
Thanks to all for the advice. I really want to live in a place warm will decent surf. I don’t mind surfing knee to waist high waves I surf them all the time here in Japan. Galveston Texas? Sounds warm! How are the waves through the year? How about sharks? And what is the biggest surfable wave you’ve seen there? Now I’m getting interested because I haven’t heard much about the surf in Texas and I have an Uncle who lives there. Love this internet. After work searching and searching for happiness. I need a goal! Australia sounds good but, I don’t think Americans can live there or can they? I know Taj Burrows parents are from the U.S. I wonder how they did that? Well thanks again to all. Advice always appreciated!
Da Cheetah