The surf down here has been around 3-6+ foot solid the last few days, on the bigger days i rode my new 6’6 rounded pin quad, which really got into them early and skated over slight ledges and into bowls and barrels very easily.
Made it seem smaller than it was in my oppinion becuase it lifted my confidence
after the first wave.Even though it was my first surf on it.
Anyway i then rode my 5’10 fish in waves around 3-5 feet, it would have a slightly mellow peak into a few tubing or racy walls.
Anyway i felt i bit sketchy on some waves that i was inside paddling to the right spot, missing some as i was too far in.
The sketchiness comes when i paddle into it straight ahead but its already steep
behind me.
It feels too oververt and tricky getting to my feet and i had nosedived on a few.
Perhaps the best way to paddle into these is on a slight angle.
However i tried not paddling at all into some, maybe one or two slow strokes at most.
Just let the wave pick you up, as soon as it pushes semi vert, get to your feet.
On the biggest one and first one i tried this on, i nearly went off the back of the wave as the lip started curling-not really pitching below me as i was getting to my feet.
A guy yelled at me as though i was holding back, but then stopped as i came back from the back of the wave down with the lip…The lip seemed to give me a lot of speed as you come crashing through into the bottom turn, out onto the wall quicker than you expect.
But im wondering if i should continue this, as it is a functional alternative but gets you into the wave very late on most.
Also i am wondering if this is really just a kooky move, not paddling much into it and letting the wave pull you in.
I could imagine a no paddle takeoff into the tube would score high points but over the lip might not.
Any thoughts or better techniques, stories to share are welcome.