Hi everyone, major lurker here after a bit of advice. I'm thinking about making my second board (need to get a place to glass it first) : want to make a traditional noserider type board for small as possible up to waist high. where i live we regularly get good 'longboarding waves', fairly mellow long peeling rights with a good shape to the pocket.
A friend reckons I can get a blank cut for the same price as it would cost me to sort out more tools etc so i'm thinking of going down that route so i can just finish it off myself. I've spent a bit of time playing on akushaper trying to develop a shape, which i (sadly unashamadly) have based on the information on the Harbour website about there new noserider model - an excellent resource and all loggers roound here froth over his boards!
I'd like any thought and comments on the shape i've made in akushaper, .pdf attached. its 23 wide, 18/14 in the nose, 15 1/2 in the tail 3 1/8 thick with a nost rocker of 3 9/16 and a tail rocker of 4 1/4, eggy rails going up in the tail, with a rolled bottom (max about 1/4in roll in the tail, 1/8in roll in the middle), going flatter in the nose and i'd plan to shape a shallow nose concave into that.
Thanks in advance for any input / insight!
the harbour nose riders have an up rail according to the website.. i'm not sure i'f i've i've taken it to the extreme too much, I always just liked the look of uprails and have heard good things about them. the rails stop being 50 50 about 2 1/2 foot from the tail and gradually get more extreme,
Looks like fun… I don’t know about the Harbour NR boards, but I like the widepoint back a bit on mine. That’s quite a bit of roll/up rail in the tail. Is that what the Harbours look like?
Up tail rails with some belly back their loosens up the turns sensitizing the tail section. This approach is classic old skool approach to 60’s single fins versus hard down rail tails on more modern counterparts. Another approach is to advance (move forward) a vee in the tail thru the stance area and lessen the v at the tail which promotes speed while providing rail to rail maneuverability. There are many combos possible as spin offs from there.
The up aka soft aka round rails in the back create suction for hold versus hard down rails that plane up and release. Noseriders work best when the tailrocker is flipped up and the front is straighter like the rockerline you have drawn up.
Contrary to popular belief, increased tailrocker lifts the nose, not the other way around. So now picture the nose lifting as increased drag does it job as the water wraps around that increased tail rocker bend and sucks onto the soft up rails.
The drag is intentional in order to clock more tip time.
There are other ways to build noseriders, but this is a very widely used (and effective) way to approach it.
Have fun with your project.